| Allen Crags and Glaramara. |
| Allen Crags 2572' (4.12 FRCC 45) and Glaramara 2560' (4.13 FRCC 47) |
| Wainwright No's 43 & 44. Saturday 9th August 2003. |
Weather :- Very warm and cloudless sky's but very hazy, got hotter and hotter. At least 30°C or 5 stella's (new temperature measurement scale!) Accompanied by :- John, Sarah and Mike M.
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| During the earlier walks we had all looked forward to the summer months. With
winter and spring out of the way, the summer seemed to promise weekend
after weekend on the fells, bagging summit after summit in a never ending
chain! In reality summer is the time for holidays and foreign travels,
festivals and days out, time away from it all and unfortunately time away
from the fells! It had been 6 weeks since Sarah had been able to venture
north, admittedly John and myself plus Mike had managed one solitary venture
onto the fells since then, but the weather had been good and now we had
chance to do some walking before my turn to be away from it all. With no
problems with my feet for at least 3 weeks (still
waiting to see a rheumatoligist!) I had the feeling that something really taxing was in order, John of course,
was ready for anything but when I talked to Sarah her idea was "Great!
let's do a little walk, have an ice cream and go to the pub" (why
didn't I listen to her words of wisdom!) Always the optimist I came up with a
plan! We could walk from Seathwaite up to Esk Hause and then see how we
felt. If everyone was OK we could carry on to Scafell Pike via Great End,
Ill Crag and Broad Crag then "bag" Lingmell and return via Styhead. If
we felt a bit worse for wear we could return to Seathwaite via Allen Crags
and Glaramara. If we felt totally out of it (it was
after all, one of the hottest days of the year, and I mean HOT!) we could have a wander over
to Seathwaite Fell and return to Seathwaite via Styhead (see,
I had a plan B and C as well!) I had to bribe Mike with the promise of Scafell Pike,
he was visiting an evening meeting at Haydock Park on Friday and would
have to moderate his indulgence, but at the mention of Scafell Pike I could
sense his ears prick up! So that was that. Sarah was coming for a little walk and an ice cream, John was up for anything, Mike was raring to get up Scafell Pike, and I was hoping not to be sussed out by them all! (I know all the right words to say to them all now!) Meeting at what seems to be the usual breakfast butty wagon at Broughton we all had whatever we needed and set off north up the M6. With only a slight holdup at Lancaster we enjoyed my new music collection (well Sarah did!) and soon found ourselves at Penrith. The traffic looked very busy here, but it was due to the Lowther Horse Trials. Hopefully we would not be bothered by this on our return. Stopping at Seatoller for a toilet break we soon found ourselves at Seathwaite. I was surprised to find parking spaces here, due to the nice weather and time of year I thought that it would be a struggle to find a parking space (maybe everyone else knew something that I didn't) Normally we seem to spend an inordinate time getting ready for walking. Today was no different, but instead of warm layers and waterproofs it was a case of applying sun cream and deciding how much not to wear! After several attempts by Sarah to become a "ladette" she reverted to the more lady like Sarah today. As we traveled north she started asking questions about the terrain underfoot and whether it was possible to wear training shoes instead of boots as it was too hot for boots! I tried my best to dissuade her but when John piped up that he was wearing his go anywhere walking shoes I think that she had decided! Then as we got ready she asked John if it was worth her taking her rucksack as all it had in it was water. John, always the gentleman, suggested that it would be OK to put her stuff into his rucksack."We can take turns to carry it !" beamed Sarah!, (as if !) After many more applications of suntan cream and making sure that nothing clashed in a fashion sense, after all walking boots don't go well with shorts apparently, we set off full of good intentions. (I know that this is a long winded intro, but at least it gives the images time to load as you read this!) |
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| Just in case you didn't know where you are! | The view south with Seathwaite Fell in the foreground |
| As we set off it was very warm but the view ahead was spoilt by the haze. We made our way along the road and I could make out our probable first destination of Allen Crags in the distance. I had already sort of decided maybe probably (I know that's bad english but it is suitable!) that Scafell Pike would be too much today, it was just too hot. The last time I was here was when I did the 3 peaks, it was 4am and we had just walked in from Seatoller as the coach we were on would not come down to Seathwaite, I can remember being none too chuffed about that at the time, and couldn't understand why we had not gone to Wasdale Head to start this leg of the journey. But that's another story! | |
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| Sour Milk Gill | Seathwaite |
| Already I was beginning to have second thoughts about today's trip. As we walked along the road my eyes were drawn towards Sour Milk Gill. The thought of scrambling up by the side of waterfalls really did seem like a good idea today. I tried to mention this to the others but it seemed to fall on deaf ears! Maybe I didn't try hard enough though as I was starting to get a bit down about the number of hills that we had climbed. After nearly a year it was still quite low (42 "Wainwright's" + 2 of the Yorkshire 3 peaks + Tryfan in North Wales + 2 "Wainwright" repeats for myself !) and I really wanted to push things along! (am I greedy or what?) | |
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| Allen Crags in the distance | Seathwaite Fell |
| We passed through Seathwaite and said hello to to the National Park Ranger sat by his Landrover. Looking at us he commented that "If we were lucky we would get a good suntan, if we were unlucky we would all get sun stroke!" With those helpful words of wisdom we left Seathwaite and headed up Grains Gill. The way ahead lay along a nice easy path and soon we began to get good views of Seathwaite Fell on our right. | |
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| The first choice. | Taylorgill force |
| We soon came across a strange sight. The footpath crossed over a wooden bridge, by the side of the bridge was a ford. Today with absolutely no sign of water this looked quite comical and the effort required to mount a set of steps onto the bridge seemed pointless so we just walked straight on! As we neared Seathwaite Fell the sight of Taylorgill Force attracted our attention. Perhaps that would have been a nice walk today along side the waterfalls, but no, we carried on along the Grains Gill path. | |
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| Stockley Bridge | The view back to Seathwaite from Stockley Bridge |
| We soon came across Stockley Bridge. For some strange reason up to here the others had lagged behind me as we walked along the path. This was unusual as I knew that I was walking slowly today, but the others seemed to move even slower. This was soon to change! Whilst waiting for the others to catch up I took a couple of photo's. Looking back towards Seathwaite there seemed to be no real height gain. This was soon to change as well! It was very hot but at least there seemed to be a gentle breeze coming down the valley that helped slightly. | |
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| Red Gill or is it Allen Gill ? | The path up Grains Gill |
| From Stockley Bridge the path turned into one of those horrible remade paths. Even though the path climbed gradually it really started to seem like hard work. We soon came across a wall across the path. John had suggested that we stop for some refreshments and I replied that the wall might be a good place, it might even offer a small amount of shade! As we made the wall we all gratefully shed our rucksacks (apart from Sarah as John was still acting the gentleman!) and took a well deserved drink break. As we enjoyed the break and a chance of something to eat and drink a few other walkers passed us. After pointing out to Sarah that one lady that passed us was wearing a bikini top Sarah thought about it for a few minutes and removed her top to reveal a bikini top as well. A few minutes later a couple passed us with the lady wearing bikini bottoms. Sarah drew the line at this though! | |
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| Looking back to Seathwaite | Great End coming into sight |
| After some refreshments we set off again. From here the path started to climb upwards and even though it was a good surface we seemed to make really slow progress. We soon came across a footbridge across a stream. This was Ruddy Gill. The water looked crystal clear in the small pools, very inviting on a hot day like today! | |
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| Looking down Ruddy Gill | Looking up Ruddy Gill |
| The couple that had passed us before, with the bikini clad lady had made their way up the gill. I suggested that we follow them as a bit of scrambling up the gill seemed like a really good idea, but the others for some reason decided to stay on the path. As I took some photo's of the gill I was left behind as the others made their way up the path. From the footbridge the path started to steepen allot and I made really slow progress trying to catch them up (as usual!) I passed a group of people lounging beside a small pool in the gill, enjoying the sunshine and generally taking it easy. | |
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| Shall we? | Yes let's! |
| This had obviously given the others pause for thought. As I caught up with them they were deep in conversation, all very conspiratorial. As I stopped for a breather and looked back to enjoy the view the others sneaked off to one of the pools by the path and decided to go for a swim. Well John and Mike did whilst Sarah looked on. John was the first to gingerly take the plunge into the very cold water slowly followed by Mike. | |
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| John taking an early shower! | Looking down to Seathwaite from one of the pools |
| John, with some encouragement even took a shower! I must admit that it looked very tempting but the thought off wet feet and shorts did not appeal to me, Sarah felt the same as she decided not to join the fun. Mike slowly lowered himself in as well. then there was no stopping them! | |
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| Great End | Sarah keeping an eye on the children! |
| Whilst I took some photo's and had a drink John and Mike went to a pool further downstream and jumped into that one, again Sarah just watched the "children" at play and I looked on. If there was any thought about getting up to Scafell Pike left in my mind it had totally disappeared now! After drying out we eventually set off again, John and Mike feeling totally refreshed, Sarah and myself feeling like we had missed out on something! | |
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| Great End getting nearer | The path alongside Ruddy Gill |
| The path became really hard work for me from here. There is something about these remade paths that seem to make it really hard work for me, I just can't seem to find a rhythm when I walk on these paths. Maybe it is the unevenness of them, I don't really know, but they are hard work! I had taken a bit of a head start here but I was soon caught up again as I kept stopping to take photo's of Great End which showed itself more and more as we walked, due to the way the light was it seemed to be a vertical cliff that blocked the way forwards, very strange! | |
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| Great End a bit nearer! | Nearing the head of Ruddy Gill |
| John, still feeling refreshed after his shower and swim started to remind us off all the "daft" things that we (mainly him and Mike!) have done on the fells. This got him to thinking about extra web pages about "extreme sports" that have been undertaken on these walks, (John says extreme sports but I like to think of them as John being daft and doing silly things!) such as scree running, swimming in rock pools, body sledging in the snow and mad scrambles. All this thinking had obviously made John feel hungry so we soon stopped again for something to eat as we reached a nice place to sit down. | |
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| Looking back down Ruddy Gill | The head of Ruddy Gill |
| I had taken the opportunity to eat whilst the others were swimming, so I just had a drink and decided to carry on and let them catch me up. I asked for a head start (at least half an hour!) as I was really finding it hard work and slow going up this path, I had no doubt that they would soon catch me up! The head of Ruddy Gill made for some interesting photo's and at last I came out to the head of the gill and was able to see the full extent of Great End at last. | |
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| Great End | |
| When I was thinking about this walk I was reading AW's description of the gullies of Great End and Cust's Gully in particular (always the optimist!) . I had even contemplated trying this. Seeing Great End up close I was still thinking about it, but then again I am still thinking about it now as I write this account! I was very pleasantly surprised to see that another fell walker/web master had attempted this route (without success) on the very same day. Have a look at the walk description and photo's at andyfellwalker.com or try this link . Skew Gill is a definite must for the future! (still thinking about it!) | |
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| Great Gable from the head of Ruddy Gill | Heading for Esk Hause |
| Now that the others had caught me up we stopped for another drink break and sat and admired the view. At last we could actually see something apart from the gill, Great Gable was in view but because of the haze it was a bit of a disappointment. This was a busy place today, people were coming up from Styhead Tarn, down from Esk Hause and up the way we had come. One noticeable thing was a father and son carrying camping gear that started to make their way directly up towards Great End. As the son, probably around ten years old had already been told off for messing about at the head of Grains Gill and had to be told where to place his feet to avoid slipping down the gully we did not hold out much hope for him on Great End! This was amusing to watch at first but we soon began to feel sorry for the young lad, hope he made it! With this slight distraction over with we set off for Esk Hause. | |
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| Allen Crags, at last! | Great Gable, Windy Gap and Green Gable |
| From here on the path was not "remade" and I felt a lot easier walking on it! A big plus was the fact that it was not as steep and we could actually see what would probably be the first summit of the day, Allen Crags. | |
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| Nearing Esk Hause | Esk Hause |
| Even though I was finding it easier I was still left behind as the others made their way towards Esk Hause. AW goes into great detail about Esk Hause, the Esk Hause that I soon arrived at is not the true Esk Hause, that is slightly higher up and away from the shelter, but on a really hot day like today did it really matter! | |
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| Esk Pike from Esk Hause | Great End from Esk Hause |
| Esk Hause, whichever one you are at, is a great place to be. You are surrounded by summits, Great End, Esk Pike, Allen Crags. Paths lead from here to the valleys of Borrowdale, Eskdale, Langdale, Langstrath and Wasdale, as well to the summits of many fells. It truly is a lakeland crossroads! | |
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| Every one deep in thought about what to do! | Looking back to Esk Hause with Ill Crag in haze |
| Because AW had taken some time to write about Esk Hause I wanted to have a look around the area but time was pressing and we still had not reached a summit yet! I ran through the options that we had with the others. Ranging from carrying on to Scafell Pike (after all most of the hard work had been done), Seathwaite Fell, Allen Crags and Glaramara, or just returning to the car. In the back of my mind I think that Allen Crags and Glaramara had always been the favorite for today. Sarah made our minds up for us and made a beeline for Allen Crags! | |
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| Nearing Allen Crags summit | Allen Crags summit |
| The path was quite rocky, more so than I was expecting but then again AW had written about this over 40 years ago in 1960 ! Soon the summit was reached. This felt like it had been one of the hardest summits to reach so far on our quest. With the heat today I was worn out! It was around three o'clock and it had taken us nearly four hours to get here, even with a long swim break we had set no records (not that we want to set records!) | |
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| 360 degree panorama from Allen Crags | |
| The summit of Allen Crags should have been a great viewpoint, but with the haze I was really disappointed. Bow Fell, Great End, Great Gable, all should have been seen really clearly, but not today. Still we could see them, just! | |
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| The terrible trio plus one at Allen crags summit | Allen Crags summit cairn |
| Taking the usual summit photo's I tried my best to get a good shot of Great Gable. The photo's that you see on this web site are reduced in size as well as reduced in detail to try and make them load quicker. Due to the haze even the original high res photo's do not do justice to any of these mountains, Oh well, maybe next time! | |
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| Great Gable over Sprinkling Tarn | Glaramara in the haze |
| I think that everybody cheered up at the summit of Allen Crags. We had eventually achieved something and with Glaramara looming through the haze we could all sense that the next part of the walk would be a lot easier going than the trudge up Grains Gill. We all enjoyed another long drink here, talking about drinking I think we must have set some sort of record for carrying water today, John's back was stating to ache after carrying both his and Sarah's water supplies and Mike never seemed to be without a bottle in his hands! As well as my frozen 2 liters of Vimto I also had 2 frozen 0.5 liters water bottles and 1 unfrozen one. I had frozen the two small bottles in an effort to keep my sandwiches cool! (great planning cos it actually worked, more on this later!) That made for a total of 3.5 liters of liquid for myself. I know that vimto is not isotonic, it is not an energy drink but when there is still a large block of it frozen in the water bottle it makes for a really refreshing COOL drink on the hills! | |
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| Glaramara | One of the many Tarns along the ridge |
| Leaving the summit of Allen Crags ever ones spirits soared as we headed off for Glaramara, we were going downhill at last! Obviously we made quick time down here, passing a couple of other walkers on the way coming in the opposite direction. In fact we probably made too good a time really because Sarah soon realized that she did not have her cap with her anymore! We all stopped and looked around, no, it was not in sight so she decided that she must have left it on the summit, or did she put it into John's rucksack ? John (still playing the gentleman) offered to go back and get it, but Sarah graciously decided that it was not that important to retrace our path UPWARDS to get it! (Phew!) | |
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| And another, with Pike O'Stickle behind | And another! |
| If anything it was getting hotter now, the haze was making the visibility poor in all directions and the breeze that we had enjoyed for most of the walk disappeared, but at least we were walking along a levelish area between Allen Crags and Glaramara! This was great, around every turn and twist in the path there seemed to be a small Tarn. It really was a nice place to walk, high up, along a nice path with something new to see around every corner, all the trails and tribulations of Grains Gill seemed to be long forgotten! Unfortunately Glaramara did not seem to get any nearer! | |
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| Looking back to Allen Crags and some more! The one on the left has a name, High House Tarn | An interesting route choice can be made! |
| Along here I seemed to get my second wind. I thoroughly enjoyed this part of the walk, to my way of thinking this walking along ridges or high level between summits is what it is all about, all the hard work that you have done to get here in the first place is forgotten about and you can just enjoy the moment and the place that you find yourself in. It really does not get better than this! I even managed to keep up with everyone, in fact I led the way. Yippee! | |
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| And another! | Glaramara getting nearer |
| Past High House Tarn the path started to climb again. This came as a sort of shock to our legs as we had just enjoyed half an hour of downhill or level walking. Our legs immediately went on strike as they felt the strain and it was time for another drink stop! Before I mentioned that I had frozen two small bottles of water. This was to keep my sandwiches cold as I had decided for a change to try a different sort of buttie, bacon and egg mayonnaise. I once had a rather horrid experience when I had made a chicken mayonnaise sandwich and left them in my car on a warm day. The mayonnaise turned into something rather slimy and rancid but I had no choice. It was a case of starve or eat the repellent looking sandwich (I still have nightmares about the taste of them!) The night before I had boiled the eggs and grilled the bacon and made them up in the morning. So now, not only was I able to enjoy one of my favorite buttie's cold, I also had a liter of frozen water to enjoy as well. Talk about forward planning! | |
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| Looking like some fun up ahead! | John taking the direct route |
| One consolation about stopping here was the fact that Sarah found her cap in John's rucksack! Can you imagine what would have happened if John had retraced his steps up to Allen Crags summit to look for this alleged missing cap. I think that Sarah would have become very intimate with the direct descent down to Borrowdale as John threw her off the path! Anyway as we set of again after this refreshment stop (my buttie's were cool and tasted really great followed by some ice cold water!) we soon stepped out onto some higher ground. We were confronted with a depression and what looked like a steep climb up to Glaramara. Sarah seemed taken aback by this and sort of groaned about it being another one of those "secret summits" sort of place! I was not particularly pleased about what lay in front of us but I decided that saying nothing and just pushing on was the best thing to do. Passing the depression the path skirted to the right some crags. John decided that he needed some adventure and passing his rucksack to Sarah for the first time today set off straight up the crags. | |
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| A guard sheep playing chicken! | Glaramara |
| We made our way up the steep path that was fun enough for us and came out above the crags to be confronted with one of those sights that can be very frightening on the fell tops, a sheep with attitude! John was somewhere off to our left and we had to walk along the path that this sheep had decided to make it's own. It just stood there and stared at us! Normally sheep will run away at the first sight of walkers, not this one though. It stood its ground and just intimidated us! With no steep precipice to be thrown off we felt safe enough to slowly walk up to the sheep. As we passed it we found the reason for it's belligerence, it's lamb was sheltering behind a rocky outcrop trying to keep out of the sun! Leaving the sheep to it's guard duties we soon reached the top of the rising ground and were able to see the summit of Glaramara in front of us (or so we thought!) | |
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| Nearing the summit plateau | The third summit |
| I had a wander over towards what seemed to be higher ground to see if it was indeed the summit. Unfortunately I was able to see higher ground quite a way in front so I had to shout back to the others that we had to carry on and pointed them in the right direction. The sight of this higher ground seemed to infuriate Sarah somewhat as I rejoined them a few minutes later, these "secret summits" really wind her up! At least we enjoyed a bit of scrambling as we made our way up to the top of the third summit as it turned out to be! | |
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| The third summit cairn with a very hazy Great Gable behind | Heading for the second summit |
Once we all rejoined at the cairn after taking our own scrambling routes it was apparent that this was not the summit, well it became apparent only after we stopped for a drink again and I read AW's account of the summit and made use of the GPS! Glaramara has three summits and we had only reached the third, or our first traveling in this direction. Confused?, well not as confused as I am looking at the photo's I took, AW's summit description and trying to make some sort of sense of them and which was which and in what order! (I really would not want to be here in mist !) |
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| Glaramara's second summit | and a view back to the third summit |
| So from the third summit we could see even higher ground, so after another drink we set off again. We soon reached the next summit, the second summit (at least this is always the second summit in whatever direction you are traveling!) Once here we could make out even higher ground to the south with a depression between us and what we hoped was the true summit! Without much of a pause I set off straight for it. | |
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| Glaramara's summit | Looking back to the second summit |
| The final part of reaching the summit involved a bit of scrambling, just what we needed to cheer us up after the slightly annoying "secret summit" sort of thing! By this time Sarah was starting to have trouble with her feet as the training shoes were rubbing on her heels (I tried to warn her!) Here I am trying to give advise on footwear and feet problems when I am the worst one of the lot (Kettle, pot black. Just rearrange these words to make a well known saying!) | |
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| Glaramara's summit | The terrible trio plus one on Glaramara's summit |
| Anyway, I suppose that there could be no doubt that this was the summit at last (the first summit) even though it was our third! (still confused!) After taking the usual photos I had a look around and found a shelter just below the summit, it made good use of the summit rocks itself and looked quite interesting. | |
| 360degree panorama from Glaramara | |
| So here we were on our second summit of the day. Psychologically it had probable been one of the hardest yet as we had been confronted with false summit after false summit on the way up from Allen Crags. It was still very hot and very hazy but we were still happy as it was all downhill from here! | |
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| The summit shelter | The path heading for Seatoller |
| We again had a drink and as I had finished the vimto it was onto the still cold water now. I took the chance to properly read AW's summit plan and it all started to make a sort of sense to me now! With that confusion out of the way I started to chuckle about his comments about the "twenty foot rock step" and ladies! I had to read this out aloud to the others as I found it highly amusing at the time. This made our minds up about a descent route of the summit for us. | |
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| Wainwright's 20' rock step from above | John and Mike have read Wainwright's comments! |
| I quote, "Ladies wearing skirts, in mixed parties, can best preserve their decorum at this point by insisting on going down first and rejecting offers of male assistance. Conversely when ascending here, they must send the men up first" Sarah commented that as she was wearing shorts this did not apply today. John and Mike did not hang around to hear this comment as they had already set off straight down the rock step at breakneck speed! I graciously came down with Sarah and preserved her decorum! | |
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| Looking back to the 20' rock step | The easy to follow path |
| As I had sat at the summit of Glaramara I had looked at the map to see our descent route. We had two choices, the map showed a path down Hind Gill but as I could not remember seeing any path on our way up, I thought that it was probably one of those imaginary paths that the OS think up! The alternative was the long descent down Thorneythwaite Fell to Seatoller and the return up the valley. For some reason this did appeal to me as I thought that the direct route would be way too steep! I had given John the map and asked him to navigate us back to the car, he was able to quickly see the two route choices and promptly set off along a well trodden path. As we made our way from the rock step to the beginning of the path a solitary walker joined us. After a nice greeting he asked us where we here heading for, when we replied "Seathwaite" he seemed to cheer up somewhat and set off along the path. I had noticed this walker off to the left of the summit of Glaramara looking at his map, seemingly unsure about something. I am always dubious about giving advice and directions after agreeing with a couple of lost fell runners in a blizzard on Crinkle Crags that we were at point X on the map when we were actually on the wrong side of the ridge and heading into Eskdale instead of Langdale! (my map reading has improved since then!) I quickly added that we would be probably be getting to Seathwaite via the ridge down to Seatoller just for my peace of mind in case he thought that we were going down the direct route via Hind Gill. He mumbled something about it probably being the best as it was very steep and set off again. This made me wonder if he was actually checking up on us! | |
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| Sarah does a Nikki ! | Combe Head |
| Making our way along the path Sarah somehow managed to miss a stepping stone and plant her left foot into a bog, leaving her training shoe behind. This is known as "doing a Nikki" after another young lady acquaintance managed to do exactly the same thing during a walk up to Haystacks on one of the camping trips that I arranged. The ground was much wetter then and Sarah did not have to reclaim a sodden shoe this time, but still it gave us all a chance to laugh and remember some fun times! | |
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| Rosthwaite Fell | |
| Once Sarah had reclaimed her shoe John told me that he thought that it would be probably best if we went down the ridge instead of the direct route. I was expecting this as it was around this point that anyone would have realized that we had missed the path down to Hind Gill! I agreed and John went on to say that he thought it would have been too steep anyway! After agreeing with him and not letting on that I knew he made a mistake I started to take a few photos' of the descent. Rosthwaite Fell had been another possible addition today and I took a panoramic shot of it. It would have been nice to "bag" it as well but I think that everyone just wanted to get back to the car! | |
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| This cairn marks a great view down Borrowdale, not today though! | A very hazy Honister Crag |
| As always, when I stop to take a photo I get left behind. I must admit that by now my feet were hurting and try as I might I just could not catch them up again (no change there then!) Instead I just made my own way down the delightful path along Thorneythwaite Fell. As the path wound it's way down I could not help but think that it would have been much better as a way up to Glaramara. From the way we came it was just a lump on the ridge after Allen Crags. In the reverse direction it would have been a great walk with an always changing view ahead. | |
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| Looking down Thornythwaite Fell | Seatoller |
| Still trying to catch them up we (I) came to a point where Seatoller came into view directly below. I was quite surprised to see how high up we still were, but when I look back at the GPS track log I realize that at the summit of Glaramara we were only about half way around this walk in terms of distance! We still had a way to walk and at this stage I think I got a bit dispirited as I new that we were walking away from the car, this was probably the same feeling that Sarah had between Allen Crags and Glaramara with all those false summits, such is the life of a fell walker! | |
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| The path down Thornythwaite Fell | Rosthwaite Fell across Combe Gill |
| I started to lag even further behind the others, especially during some of the steeper sections. Just to make myself feel better I kept stopping to take photo's (I think that is a great excuse!) But then again you probably have realized by now that I am not as fit as the others and I need excuses like this! I must admit that the view over Combe Gill to Rosthwaite Fell was worthy of stopping for though. Combe Door and a sort of cave or cleft in the side of the Fell made for an interesting view. At last the others had decided to stop and wait for me. I think that this was more to do with the fact that for the first time the path lay in the shade of the sun! | |
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| The path and Borrowdale | Combe Door |
| I was grateful for this as it gave me time to figure out something that was really annoying me now. My two frozen 0.5 liter water bottles had for some reason decided to melt at different rates. This meant that I was able to enjoy a nice cold drink from one whilst the other seemed to refuse to melt. The result of this was the sound of an ice block rattling from side to side as I walked, after a while this had really got on my nerves! I shared some of my water out as the others seemed to have run out. This was no surprise as I have never walked in such temperatures before and liquid was a must. | |
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| The path eventually reaches the ferns as it looses height | The path reaches the gate by the road to Thornythwaite Farm |
| Now that we were all together again I vowed that I would not be separated again. This turned out to be true as Sarah kept me company as John and Mike raced off again!. At least we had a laugh at the noise from my still frozen block of ice, how can two identical water bottles melt at different rates? Very soon we reached lower ground and the ferns. The path made its way through the ferns and as we were all together again I noticed some movement and noise in the ferns ahead. We all stopped to see if we could see what was causing it. It could have been a sheep or even a deer but it obviously had more patience than us and we soon got bored of waiting! A family of walkers passed us and as we reached civilization at last, well a road at least, it soon became obvious that they had better knowledge than us as their car was there waiting for them by the side of the road to Thorneythwaite Farm. We still had the trudge along the valley to Seathwaite to look forward to! | |
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| Looking back to Glaramara | Huge stone walls along the road to Thornythwaite Farm |
| John still has a thing about stone walls and soon pointed out the size of the wall alongside the road. it was huge! This wall was at least three times the width of most stone walls in the area, why? Pondering such thoughts I put my head down and tried my best not to think about the pain in my feet. I think that Sarah was suffering even more than me by now as she seemed to be walking slower and slower. | |
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| The path leaves the road here | and makes it's way through the fields |
| We soon came to the end of the road, or the point that the path left the road. John pointed out the steep sides of the ridge up to Glaramara and we agreed that it had been the wise thing to do to take the longer but less steep route from the top. This track was a nice way up the valley, passing through fields full of sheep. We passed some walkers coming back in the opposite direction and again I had to think that they made made the better choice of route! | |
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| Seathwaite across the valley floor | At last ! but the cafe has already closed |
| As we neared Seathwaite we could see the car parked on the road but the direct route would involve climbing over some fences. Admittedly we were sorely tempted as by now we had all been reduced to a crawl, we saw sense and continued into Seathwaite and back down the road. Needless to say that by this time the cafe had closed and the Park Ranger had long since gone. We were all hungry by now and more importantly thirsty so we stopped off in Keswick for something to eat and drink. We enjoyed a great meal in a pub, not exactly gourmet food but filling and cheap, in fact is was one of the most enjoyable meals that I had had in a long time (then again we had earned it!). As we sat in the pub we thought about the walk we had just completed and new web pages. Sarah has already suggested an accident book sort of page, John wants a page dedicated to the daft things we (him) have ended up doing on the walks and someone suggested a page about the food and different sort of sandwiches we take! Who knows maybe not such a bad idea after all! Getting back to the walk even John had found it hard, I think he even said it was the hardest one so far. I have to agree with him there, it had just been too hot today. At least with the late finish and a stop off in Keswick we would hopefully miss out on the worst of the traffic, or so we thought! | |
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| The GPS track log uploaded into the Anquet software showing the route of today's walk | |
We had a quite journey down the A66 and on the M6. Sarah was in contact with her better half who had said that according to the news traffic was very bad (why didn't we listen!) It was OK where we were but that soon changed as we hit the back of a traffic jam near Carnforth. It was moving very slowly even for these roadwork's, something was up! That something was the fact that they had closed the motorway entirely and diverted traffic off the motorway and through Carnforth, bad move! I at least knew how to get back to the M6 at Lancaster by crossing the River Lune at Caton (the opposite side of the motorway to where ever one was being diverted) , there followed a rather interesting diversion along pitch black narrow roads with John driving and me navigating. This proved to be fun as John did not seem to realize the trick was to actually listen to what I told him, i.e. turn right here, RIGHT, RIGHT, RIGHT! Somehow, despite John's best efforts we found our way back to the M6 and thought about all those poor souls still stuck on the A6, Ha ha! I eventually arrived back home at 10.30pm, it was after midnight for Sarah! A long long day, hard work and hot and a few lessons learnt. When we did Coniston Old Man and the ridge north I wrote a few tips and points to remind me about walking on the fells in bad weather, or when there is nothing to see due to low cloud. After this walk I think I should jot a few tips about walking in very hot and hazy weather! 1. If it's very hot don't bother walking up a big hill! Find a nice
waterfall of gill to scramble up. |
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