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| Tryfan's East face ( taken in April 2002) |
Tryfan's West face |
After recently reading an article in Trail Magazine in which Tryfan
was voted the favorite UK mountain by it's readers, and last weeks walk
amongst boggy moorland up Caudale
Moor and High Street it was time for a change, time for some rock underfoot.
With descriptions from the magazine such as "an infinite choice of routes" and "a
summit that does not give itself up easily" it was time to say goodbye
to the Lake District, at least just for this one outing to Snowdonia. As
it was also a chance for the journeys of the terrible three to be reversed
and give Sarah a late start and an early finish, it was decided that we
should treat ourselves to a day on Tryfan.
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| The gate from the car park onto the hillside |
Along the treacherous, slippy rocks looking back |
So after a 155 mile trip via Skelmersdale and The Wirral
and a stop of at McDonalds in Cheshire Oaks, the car park beside Llyn Ogwen
awaited us. We took one of the last available spaces, I envied the other
people who had had an earlier start than us, but setting of at 7.30am was
early enough for us. By the time we all had our kit sorted and set of it
was 11.00am. As is the case on most of our walks the others did not have
any idea what laid in store for us, this time neither did I. Both John
and myself had seen Tryfan from the East, by far the better side, but the
others had not, only seeing the West face from the road. From here Tryfan
does not look like a serious challenge, so we set of not really knowing
what to expect but hoping for a good scramble. After walking along the
road for a short while we entered another car park and made our way through
the gate and onto the hillside. the way ahead to a ladder stile across
a wall was plainly visible, unfortunately there did not appear to be much
of a path towards the wall and we had to make our own way across the boulder
strewn hillside. Within minutes we realized that this was to be quite a
dangerous undertaking. The rock was extremely slippy, and in some places
covered in ice, this meant slow and careful progress.
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| One of the buttresses above the path |
The path up to the saddle |
Carefully and slowly we made our way to the ladder stile.
Passing below some climbers on one of the buttresses gave some perspective
to the sheer size of the rock faces, they were huge. The going was slow
and I began to wonder what the rock would be like higher up, after all
we only had about 5 hours of daylight left. After making it up to the wall
the way ahead to the saddle above Creigiau Dena was revealed. I thought
that upon reaching the saddle we would then be able to start the long scramble
up the North ridge. The path was mainly loose scree, but if you kept in
to the rock face the going was quite good.
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| The path easier along the rock face |
Higher along the path |
| We made quite good time towards the saddle, the path alternating between
scree and solid rock. With altitude quickly gained the views back to the
lake gave an impression of height and it was turning out to be a good walk.
For most of the way up to the saddle Phil was leading the way. In the past
he has completed the three peaks with me and done a fair amount of walking,
he even used to run half marathons as a hobby ( how mad is that ?). But
he has not done any walking for quite a while now, and was a bit apprehensive
about being left behind. |
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| The path becoming better amongst the heather |
Starting to climb up from the saddle |
No need to worry about that! We were taking our time and
thoroughly enjoining the route. When we reached the saddle we had a choice,
we could continue around and join the heather terrace or make our own way
up. I asked the group and the decision was up, straight up. At this point
it was a case of finding our own route up. At first the way ahead seemed
to consist of any number of routes, we just had to decide which suited
us best. As you could not see very far upwards we had to pick our route
as we went along. This was great fun, the ground showed evidence of previous
footprints so we felt quite assured that it was a safe way up.
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| Climbing further up from the saddle |
The first awkward bit |
| We quickly gained altitude, sometimes clambering
from rock to rock, sometimes being able to walk upright for a few paces
at a time until the next obstacle made us use both hands and feet. Eventually
we came across the first serious obstacle in our path. This was a collection
of boulders about ten feet in height. So after looking at the problem for
a minute or two I took a step back with my left foot and managed to place
it about a foot high on some sods. I was then able to lift my right leg
onto a foothold at waist height and reaching forwards get a hand hold good
enough for me to pull myself onto and over the obstacle. I was quite chuffed
with this as it did seem at first glance that we might have to retrace
our steps and find an alternative route. The rest of the group quickly
followed me up after a quick question and answer session about how I managed
it. |
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| The author looking like he is enjoying himself ! |
The second awkward bit |
| After this first awkward bit the route
again made itself clear to us and we started to traverse to the right slightly
whilst still gaining height. As we approached a rock wall we stated to
go vertical again. This was very reminiscent of Jack's Rake on Pavey Ark.
It was here that the second awkward part made itself known. The way ahead
was blocked by a vertical face with a crack on the right side. The crack
gave good hand holds, but there was only signs of one good foothold. This
was a depression in the rock face that had obviously seen a lot of use.
It did not seem to afford a lot of grip, but when you did place your left
foot onto it you felt quite comfortable, and with another pull up or two,
level(ish) ground was found again. Again we had a quick question and answer
session and we all made it up. John now took the lead, and after traversing
right along a rocky shelf we were confronted with what was the most difficult
pitch yet. |
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| Sarah stuck in the third awkward bit |
Easier progress after the struggle |
John completed the pitch quickly, unfortunately too quick
for the rest of us to follow his moves. He suggested that the crack that
he had ascended was too narrow for safe passage with a rucksack, so we
passed all the rucksacks up to him, this was a feat in itself. Phil made
his way up with much questioning and answering from both above and below.
Then it was Sarah's turn. As I soon found out it was very easy to go to
far into the crack to avoid the sense of exposure below, and Sarah soon
found herself halfway up the crack and firmly stuck. It seemed like an
eternity before she was able to come out of the crack and make it to the
last few feet. She found this highly amusing and could not stop herself
from laughing (I have figured out this laugh now,
whenever Sarah feels in danger she has a nervous reaction and starts to
laugh!) I soon found
myself in the same predicament. The sight of the drop below forced me further
into the crack and it took a major force of will to come out and make the
last few pulls up and over. The wait, and seeing the others struggle had
not done my nerves any good at all. It is no wonder the others looked like
I felt now on the previous two awkward parts!
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| Higher |
and higher |
After this it was easy progress again. The way upwards was
again easy to pick out and very enjoyable. Easy scrambling and walking
amongst the heather let us make quick time upwards. Although we were quite
high up the ridge now there was still no sign of the summit. The view back
down to the road showed how much altitude we had gained, it was breathtaking.
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| Is that the summit ? No |
Y Garn |
The rock that we were walking on was a lot drier than initially.
This meant that the pace quickened as we all felt "safer" and did not have
to spend too much time thinking about slipping.
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| The terrible trio plus one somewhere on Tryfan |
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Eventually, after a steep slog the summit came into view.
By this time Phil, who is diabetic needed some nourishment. I agreed, but
wanted to push on and try and find the Cannon.
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| Tryfan's three summits |
The Cannon |
And now it was time for lunch. By good planning,
or lust plain luck, we found the Cannon and decided that it would be a
great spot for lunch. Sarah had a quick bite to eat and then set of to
clamber up onto the Cannon. She had a bit of difficulty as it was very
slippy, and the exposure felt quite bad. I still can't figure out what
she was trying to do, make your own decision. The area to the left of the
Cannon was comprised of a white quartz like rock. It was a very noticeable
difference from the other rock on Tryfan. In some places it looked as if
there was a covering of snow on the rock.
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| Is Sarah praying or just about to do a high dive ? |
Phil trying to stand upright |
| Phil took his turn and was able to stand upright at least.
Then it was my turn to show them how it is really done. I found it relatively
easy to get up to the small hollow that let's you stand upright, but the
rock was very wet and there was no way I was going to go ant further. As
it took quite a while to get the photo of me I had a chance to look around.
This was a strange experience as anytime I tried to look around I felt
as if I was going to overbalance and felt dizzy. This was not good, so
I concentrated on looking straight ahead! |
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| The author showing how it is really done! |
Sarah and John meet a new friend |
| Meanwhile back at the lunch site, John had made a new friend.
He had befriended a local inhabitant. Sarah, after being introduced had
decided to feed it and teach it new tricks. We spent an enjoyable ten minutes
teaching the bird to sit up and beg, catch and a few other tricks. It did
not seem to know the roll over and die trick, but you can't have everything. |
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| Leaving our lunch spot and heading ever onwards |
The three summits coming into view |
| So with time drawing on we set of again, soon the summit
came into plain view. We could clearly see people all over the rock scenery.
Some were coming down, some still ascending. As there appeared to be still
no path we made our own way up. The way ahead seemed easy enough until
you looked closely at the summits, here the route did not seem to made
itself obvious. |
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| Onwards and upwards |
Looking towards Y Garn |
| Undeterred we continued ever onwards and upwards (I think
that is a great motto "Onwards and Upwards!" ) Soon the ridge we were ascending
narrowed, a sure sign that we were approaching the summit area, and we
found ourselves traversing to the left. We approached a great barrier to
forward navigation, I could see no easy way up so decided to have a quick
look around to the left. A small path appeared out of nowhere and led between
some rock walls and down slightly before opening out to a fantastic view
of Cwm Tryfan. To my right there appeared a gully that led straight up.
In front the path continued to some very steep rock walls. On these rock
walls fully equipped climbers went about their work. The route forward
looked doable, but what did those climbers know that I didn't, hard hats,
climbing harnesses, and miles of rope suggested something that we were
not really prepared for, Gulp! |
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| The first summit |
Come on it's this way ! |
| John soon settled the indecision that I was feeling. He
declared quite loudly that the gully was the way for us. This came as a
relief for me as for the first time today I was beginning to feel a bit
out of my depth. Even though the gully looked quite easy, and undoubtedly
led straight up, I was beginning to feel uneasy. It brought about memories
from my last trip to Snowdonia, when I had the same feeling just before
damaging my ankle on Crib Cogh. The anxiety I felt was due to not knowing
if, when we came out at the top of the gully we would have to descend something
before making it back up to the summit. This was the problem that I had
encountered on Crib Cogh , and I certainly did not want to repeat it here! |
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| The beginning of the gully, looking down from the location of the previous
photo |
Further up the gully |
Up the gully we went, after a very steep first part that
was a pleasure to climb, the gully started to ease in gradient and became
relatively easy to ascend. That is until we reached the end. Here a huge
slab of rock was balanced precariously across the head of the gully. On
the left it only rested by an inch onto the supporting rock. it looked
very insecure, although it has probably been there for hundreds of years.
There was an easy rock stairway to it's left, but as I got up to it I could
not see an easy way upwards without actually standing on this choke stone.
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| And a bit further up |
The chock stone at the head of the gully |
| I advised everyone to stand well back to the right in a
small area that was not directly below the choke stone and took the plunge.
I need not have feared because this rock was solid underfoot, Sarah gingerly
followed me up and out of the gully. John and Phil meanwhile had time to
find another route up and out of the gully. This meant going directly under
the choke stone and up another way. Very brave I thought. |
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| Coming out at the top of the gully |
How high are we ? |
After leaving the gully the rock took on a totally different
aspect. it was again very wet and slippy, in some places ice had formed.
Once again we had to watch every step and take great care. After a relatively
easy section, we bypassed the first summit and came out to a level area
between the first two summits.
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| Leaving the gully between the first and second summits |
Looking towards Idwal Cottage |
After a slow traverse of this level area, level meaning
that the boulders and rocks were jumbled together in a haphazard way that
did not rise up, but made forward progress very slow! we arrived at the
head of a second gully. Surprisingly enough this second gully also had
a chock stone resting above the head of the gully. By this time Sarah's
knee's were giving her problems and she and John had lagged behind. Phil
and myself waited for them to catch up and waited at the head of the second
gully. Various people passed us going both up and down.
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| Looking back to Tryfan's first summit |
A choke stone above the second gully |
| After a slight descent to the head of the second gully we
made our way up the last feet to the summit of Tryfan. These last few feet
seemed to take an eternity, there was no sign of the summit until we actually
arrived there. The rock was very slippy and progress was slow, but eventually
there they were. Adam and Eve, the two rocks that stand proudly at the
top of this lovely mountain. As they came into view I was treated to the
sight of someone making the leap from one to another, this entitled him
to become a freeman of Tryfan. Allegedly this entitled the proud freeman
the right to wander naked amongst the summit rocks with a daffodil protruding
from a bodily orifice! |
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| Adam and Eve, John and Sarah. Or is it the other way? |
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| When John and Sarah came up to the summit, John told this
newly anointed freeman of Tryfan his entitlement, surprisingly enough he
did not seem that keen on the idea! Now it was our turn to become freemen
of Tryfan. john had a try to mount the first stone, I am not sure if it
was Adam or Eve, but he did not manage either. Undeterred I went to have
a look. After viewing the surroundings, and with more people arriving at
the summit, I felt a strong bond with my wife and children back home. I
felt a sudden urge to be back there, and decided that cowardice is the
better part of valor, and promptly left Adam and Eve well alone ! |
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| John and Sarah leaving the summit |
Tryfan's third summit from Adam and Eve |
| After a quick panoramic photo and putting on some more layers
of clothing (still not sure whether the temperature was dropping suddenly
or it was the chill of the thought of leaping from Adam and Eve), but I
had really started to feel cold. Somehow in my haste to retire to safer
ground I neglected to get a picture of us all on the summit, something
that I would kick myself for all the way down! |
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| 360 degree panorama from the summit of Tryfan |
| I did at least manage to take a panorama, limited in view
to the South due to bulk of Glder Fach, but great views towards the North
and East. |
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| Looking back up towards the summit |
Glyder Fach |
| So that was Tryfan, all that remained was to get safely
back to the car in one piece! The initial descent down to Bwlch tryfan
was very steep and for the most part pathless. Again we found ourselves
making our own route slowly down. When we reached Bwlch Tryfan we had a
decision to make, we could either take the path to the right via Llyn Bochlwyd
or to the right via the heather terrace. We decided upon the former and
began the descent towards the lake. |
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| The ladder stile on Bwlch Tryfan |
Looking down from the other side of the stile |
| The descent was very tiring at first but when we reached
the path by the lake the pace soon quickened. We were overtaken by a group
that soon disappeared into the distance, were we really that slow? After
a steep descent by the waterfalls at the outlet of the lake we carried
along the path towards Idwal cottage, although this was not the direct
route back to the car, the fading light meant that it would be far safer
following this path. Our path soon joined another and we could make out
fellow travelers making their way back down to civilization. In no time
at all we were back at the road and made it back to the car with dusk well
and truly falling. |
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| The descent towards Llyn Idwal |
Llyn Idwal and the path to Idwal cottage |
| So that was Tryfan. Thoughts that ran through my head on
the journey back ranged from pure exhilaration to relief. there are very
few places in the Lake District that can compare to Tryfan. The scrambling
and route finding, the views and the sense of height, the sense of achievement
and feeling of danger will stay with me for along time. i think that everyone
enjoyed Tryfan, it was well worth the long journey and maybe when all the
Wainwright Fells are completed we will return. One thing is for sure, we
would not find the same route that we took today!, next time it might be
easier, or probably a more difficult route. Tryfan was magical, it was
pure adrenaline all the way up. Throw in a feeling of the unknown and it
makes for a superb day! |
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Above is a map of the area that those nice people at the
Ordnance Survey have put together for me. All I have to do in return
is to display the following.
Image produced from the Ordnance Survey Get-a-map service.
Image reproduced with kind permission of Ordnance
Survey and Ordnance Survey of Northern
Ireland .
Now, how kind of them is that ?
BUT, if you want to see something REALLY good, click
on this link. Those very clever people at Multimap.com have done
something even better than the kind people at the Ordnance Survey!
Not only do you get a map, but at no extra cost to you, a no nonsense
arial photograph, just click on the link and you get the photo, wait
a while and then you get the map in an overlay when you move your mouse.
I kid you not this is the dogs dangley bits, or as Charlotte and Sarah
would say "How cool is that then?" Enjoy ! |
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