 |
 |
| Ingleborough from the A683 near Cantsfield |
Ribblehead Viaduct |
| As we parked up at the road junction John somehow noticed
that there was a butty wagon there, I have noticed this for many a year but
never stopped here. Without wasting any time the order for two bacon and
egg barm's and two cups of tea was delivered. I knew that this was a mistake
for me but who can resist when it's offered on a plate! I noticed that
the butty wagon was called "The Fourth Peak" and that there where some
marshals of some sort nearby, sitting down at a table and well covered
up against the chill wind that was blowing, they looked like they meant
to be there for a while ! Perhaps it was going to be very busy on the hills
today! Once our second breakfast (just watched
Lord Of The Rings on DVD!) was finished we quickly got our gear on and set off walking.
Well we didn't set off straight away as I had to setup and calibrate (play
with) my new navigational aid (Toy) That's right, after many months of
scrimping and saving I had decided to invest in a state of the art, multifunctional,
multi featured, multicolored, battery powered GPS receiver (Gizmo,
Gadget or Gimmick ? ) , I'll let you know which later. |
 |
 |
| Whernside above Ribblehead Viaduct |
A sign about the heritage of Ribblehead |
| So at about 11am we set off walking, I was quite surprised
by the lateness of the hour as it is really not all that far away, but
then again John was a bit late, a stop for petrol and a second breakfast
(I think I am starting to get this Lord Of The Rings
stuff now!) and setting
up a way point in the GPS did take some time. There is something about
the viaduct at Ribblehead that seems different, all it needed was a steam
train crossing the viaduct to make the scene complete. It is a throw back
to the olden days (they don't build them like that
any more!) I, like most
kids, went through a train spotting stage, helped in my case by my Dad
who used to work on the railways. I can remember getting a book from the
library about the Settle-Carlisle Line, I can remember the fight that went
on to keep this line open in the 80's. Thankfully all the pressure groups
eventually succeeded, and the line remains open today. It does not bear
thinking about what this viaduct would like today if it had been left to
fall into disrepair. |
 |
 |
| Looking back to the viaduct |
An old railwaymen's hut |
| Leaving the car and walking over to the viaduct we seemed
to spend an age looking around at the base and the surrounding area. When
we eventually left the viaduct and started to walk along the path it was
not long before we came across an old railway hut that caught the attention
of John. He jumped over the wall and went to investigate. All that is left
is a roofless ruin, but it did help to give some idea of what life was
like back in the days when steam was king. |
 |
 |
| Motor cross riders enjoying the path as well |
A sign in the rebuilt wall |
| Rejoining the path again we had to give way
to some motocross riders who were coming down the path. I am not really
sure about the legality of this, but I must admit that they did seem to
take their time and try not to damage the path with needless wheel spins
and jumping on the brakes, they too were out to enjoy the countryside,
albeit with a slightly less tiresome mode of transport than shanks pony!
(lucky devils!) The path along here had obviously been repaired or reconstructed
along with the viaduct and surrounding area, there were signs in the wall
about the reconstruction and how they did it. John took great interest
in this as he seems to have a thing about dry stone walling, just as I
have a thing about memorials! |
 |
 |
| Bridge No....oops I didn't note it! |
Is this the most modern stile you have ever seen ? Gate, stile, and
mini gate.. Trendy or what!!! |
| It was still quite cold as we passed by a bridge and then
a very unusual stile or gate thing, I am still not sure how to describe
it ! Somebody has spent a lot of money around here to rebuild the
walls and paths, the job on the path is excellent as it was a pleasure
to walk along. |
 |
| Park Fell, Simon Fell and Ingleborough |
| The view forwards did not really reveal anything about where
we were heading for, as yet Whernside was not in sight. Looking back however
there was a fantastic view over the railway towards Ingleborough. I was
beginning to wonder why we were going up Whernside at all with Ingleborough
looking so inviting. I then remembered that I had sort of told John that
we would do both today, I hoped that I would not let him down! |
 |
 |
| Are sheep allowed to use the paths as well ? |
The rebuilt signal box |
| Up until now we had just been ambling along looking at the
area around the railway. Even for me it was slow so we started to pick
up the pace and chase the sheep away from the path in our hurry. Passing
by the signal box we left the railway for the time being and started to
walk into the rather bleak looking moorland. The path eventually returned
to the railway and crossed over it at an aqueduct. |
 |
 |
| The aqueduct over the railway line |
Bleamoor tunnel |
| This aqueduct is defiantly a work of art. When they built
the railway not only did they have to make viaducts and tunnels, here they
had to ensure that the stream was diverted as well. This bridge over
the railway carried not only the path, wide enough for horse and cart or
tractor or whatever was used in them days, but the stream as well. I was
so taken by the place that we stopped for a coffee break. On one side the
railway entered Bleamoor tunnel and on the other it carried on to the viaduct
with stunning views to Ingleborough. |
 |
 |
| Waterfalls in Force Gill |
The path up Slack Hill |
| As we had our coffee we noticed quite a few groups of walkers
passing us. I was surprised by this as usually in the Lake District you
might find groups of two or three, maybe four at the most. Here the groups
numbered up to ten people at a time, all marching purposely on as if on
a mission! Leaving the aqueduct the nature of the walk changed. For
the first time the path started to gain height as it made its way up past
some waterfalls and onto Slack Hill. The path was still excellent, it turns
out that this is part of the Craven Way, a sort of long distance path. |
 |
 |
| Whernside coming into view |
An RAF Hercules |
| For the first time Whernside came into view. To say that
I was a bit disappointed by the appearance of Whernside is an understatement,
it looks nothing more than a slight moorland ridge than a mountain . There
is just no comparison between this and Ingleborough (sorry!) John
heard something that made him look back. Coming over Ribblehead and heading
right by us were two RAF Hercules transport aircraft. It made a nice change
to see these rather slow airplanes twist and turn along the valley at what
seemed a really slow speed compared to the flash of a jet fighter whizzing
past at the speed of light! |
 |
 |
| Whernside |
The remade path up to Knoutberry Hill |
| Turning off to the left we started to make our way up towards
Knoutberry Hill. At first the path was as you would expect, quite worn
but nice underfoot. There were even large white bags of stone that
had been dropped off in preparation for the path repairers to work with.
Soon though as the path started to cross the boggy ground a path of large
paving slabs lay before us. This was path repair taken to the extreme!
Before us laid the paving slabs in a line straight up to the ridge, it
was quite extraordinary really, each slab laid end on end gradually rising
up. This meant that the pace we went at soon took us up to the ridge, I
still don't know if I liked this method of making paths but these slabs
are here to stay and won't wear out very quickley! |
 |
 |
| Looking back at the crowds |
A proper path! |
| Reaching the ridge it was time for another coffee break
as the last pull up to the ridge had been quite steep and I needed a bit
of a breather! John had some food whilst I enjoyed a nice long drink
and a smoke. This also gave me chance to check out (play
with! ) the GPS.
I had sort of kept looking at it every now and again, it was giving me
all sorts of information about average speeds, altitudes and times etc.
Now I had the chance to see if the position it gave was correct. Passing
John the map I read of the coordinates that the GPS thought that we were
at, John soon found them on the map, ie at the point where the path met
the wall that we were resting our backs against! So far so good, it seemed
to work as advertised! Soon the number of people that we could clearly
see coming up the paving slabs started to amaze me. Where had they all
come from ? This was like Blackpool prom in the summer! It was fun to sit
and watch people struggle up to the ridge. Some just kept going up the
easier gradient along the ridge to the summit, whilst others like us sat
down next to the wall along the ridge for a cuppa and a chance to catch
their breath. |
 |
 |
| The Howgill Fells |
The path nears the summit |
| Fully rested we once again set of along the ridge that led
up to the summit. From a distance we had seen many people along this skyline
and now it was our turn. The view to the north from here was so much better
than to the south, the Howgills and the Lake District itself came into
view, looking so much better than the dreary moorland that had seemed to
be everywhere before this ridge! The path made its way up gradually and
we seemed to pass groups of people with ease, one of a group of ladies
in front of us was offering some sweets around to the rest of her
group "anyone want a sweet?" she asked. "Don't mind if I do!" said John
as he passed her! So with something to chew on he passed by the ladies
and carried on, I gracefully declined the offer made by the lady, but then
again she had asked John if his friend wanted one as well and not asked
me directly herself! Hey, I'm a person as well , not just John's sidekick! |
 |
 |
| John having fun along the summit path |
Whernside Trig Point |
| Obviously happy by his sweet grabbing conquest of the fairer
sex, John started to have fun along the path. The nearer the summit we
got the better it got! The path followed the drop and this drop got
steeper and steeper the further along we went, maybe there was something
about Whernside after all! I was really impressed with this part, for the
first time today there seemed to be a feeling of height, the path was great
and the views really started to get better, especially to the north were
the Howgill Fells and the Lake District could be seen very clearly. |
 |
| 360 degree panorama from Whernside |
| Well they say that all good things come to an end and this
certainly did as we got to the summit! It was absolutely packed out with
large numbers of people sheltering alongside the wall. Stopping well before
the summit I took a 360 degree panoramic photo. John did not like the crowds
at all and I could tell that he was itching to get away from here. As we
reached the actual summit there was a small opening in the wall that led
to the actual summit and trig point. We ventured through this gap and were
quite surprised to find that this side was deserted. After taking a photo
of the trig point John pointed out the amount of broken glass that littered
this side, it really was a mess with smashed bottles everywhere! |
 |
 |
| One of the Millennium shelters at Whernside summit |
Two happy walkers at Whernside summit |
| Going back through the gap in the wall John remade his acquaintance
with the lady with the sweets and persuaded her to take a photo of the
two of us (he has such a way with the ladies!) The summit area itself
was quite nice, on either side of the wall were two shelters that have
been built as part of the wall, funny how only one was being used today,
one side very busy but the other side by the trig point was deserted! With
the photo's taken we left the summit and headed down towards Ingleborough,
only too glad to leave the crowded summit! I had to double back and play
with the GPS to set a mark point for future reference at the trig point.
So not only was John getting a bit fed up with me stopping to take photo's,
he now had to contend with me playing with the GPS!, sorry mate, but it
might come in handy someday! |
 |
 |
| Looking to Ingleborough |
The path from Whernside summit |
| Leaving the summit down the path, that according to John
had been made by Mc Alpine's when they resurfaced the M6, Ingleborough
was plain to see across the valley floor. It is about 4.5 miles away as
the crow flies. For us this was to be a different sort of walk, normally
we will choose a hill and find routes along ridges that link together to
form a good high level route or just walk straight up and down a hill.
Now we had climbed up one hill and started to make our way across a valley
and climb a totally separate, isolated hill. For the next hour or
so Ingleborough just did not seem to get any nearer at all! |
 |
 |
| The start of the steeper descent |
Path repairs underway |
| The path gradually lost height until we came to a rather
steep section, after that the path we wanted turned off to the left and
dropped quite steeply down towards the valley and Ingleborough. This
section was in the process of being repaired and it was roped off. It did
take a while to get down to the valley floor down the grassy slopes to
the side of the path. During this decent we got chatting with a bloke who
looked a bit like I was starting to feel. The only difference was that
he had already been up and down Pen-y-gent as well as Whernside after leaving
Horton in Ribblesdale at 7am! It was one of those three peak days, that
explained the growing number of people that were slowly catching us up. |
 |
 |
| The path |
Looking back to Whernside |
| As we got past the wall that marked the start of
the low level pastures the path leveled out and started to make its
way towards civilization again. It made its way across rough grass and
eventually into more cultivated fields as we reached the farm tracks. The
lambs were out in force today, playing about in the warm sun that had now
come out. It was turning into a really nice day with only the odd cloud
or two casting shadows across the valley. |
 |
 |
| Ingleborough only slightly nearer |
A tree growing out of the limestone |
| Eventually the farm track reached some farm buildings and
a small road. After suffering from indigestion for most of the walk
so far due to the stop at the butty wagon immediately before setting off
walking (knew it was a bad idea for me) I at last felt like eating, so
we stopped for lunch (Johns second lunch!) Again as we ate the crowds passed
us by, we had a bad moment when some people with a dog tried to get it
to jump over a rather large stile, it took the dog a few attempts and we
were both a bit surprised that it did not break it's back as it fell backwards
a few times before eventually succeeding, I don't think John was impressed
at all with the owners, it did look a bit dangerous for the dog. |
 |
 |
| Ingleborough, a bit nearer |
Philpin snack bar |
| Setting off once more we started to walk along the road
towards Philpins Farm, we knew that was the name as we kept coming across
signs that said "snack bar" etc A strange place for a snack bar!
When we reached it after passing innumerable signs I could tell that John
was tempted by the sign that said "ice cold milk", after some "shall I/shan't
I" sort of thinking John decided that he did want some, so I got him some.
The snack bar consisted of a wagon inside a barn, good idea if it was raining!
According to the literature after some funding from The England Rural Development
Programme they have installed a toilet for 2003. This seemed to get John
a bit wound up as he started to go on about subsidies and money grabbing
farmers. I have a different perspective on this after seeing how hard these
farmers actually work, but that's a conversation for another time and place! |
 |
 |
| Ingleborough from above the Hill Inn |
Limestone pavement above Highwood Pasture |
| Following the small road we came out near the Hill
Inn on the main road that we had driven along hours before. Here
seemed to be a planned pit stop for many of the three peakers, they met
support people in cars and took the opportunity to eat and drink (isn't
that cheating not carrying your own supplies ?) I am sure that some people
even changed items of clothing here as well as take on water and sustenance!
For the last hour or so the walk had been rather a long boring slog along
farm tracks and minor roads. Once over the main road the character of the
walk changed for the better. After walking through a few pastures we found
ourselves walking just below a range of limestone pavements, this was Sotherscales
Scars. |
 |
 |
| Gentian ( a small purple flower) |
Looking back to Whernside |
| This path eventually turned up onto the top of this
limestone pavement and we were confronted with a view of this pavement
stretching out in all directions. There was the odd spot of colour of small
purple flowers appearing between the limestone, I am reliably informed
that these little purple things are called Gentian. |
 |
 |
| The path through the limestone pavement |
Trees growing up through the limestone |
| The track that we now walked along had obviously
been made by removing rather a lot of limestone, I wonder where it
went? Anyway, by now I was feeling pretty worn out. Ingleborough was now
directly in front of us but it had seemed like it had taken hours to get
to it from Whernside, and my feet had really taken a beating along the
road section of the walk. As we turned the corner and neared a rather large
hole in the ground called Braithwaite Wife Hole I had to call a halt and
stop for a coffee break. Whilst I had a breather and tried to make my feet
a bit more comfortable John took the opportunity to get up onto the limestone
pavement and explore a bit, I think he was quite impressed by the surroundings,
it did make a change from the Lake District! I was impressed as well (but
my feet were killing me!) the pain sort of distracted me from enjoying
it too much. |
 |
 |
| Braithwaite Wife Hole |
Another shake hole |
| After leaving Braithwaite Wife Hole (what
sort of name is that?) the path made its way up to a wall and then entered Ingleborough
Nature Reserve. From here the path was once again of a repaired nature.
It was easy to walk on, much preferable to walking along the boggy ground
that lay beneath, but somehow it just did not seem right. |
 |
 |
| The path across Humphrey Bottom |
The boardwalk across Humphrey Bottom |
| To relieve the boredom of walking along these paving
slabs there was a point where the path was made up of boards. The
pictures can be more descriptive than any words, but the path went on and
on and on, along the way towards Ingleborough! The only interesting thing
about this walk was the question of where did this path lead? Ever since
leaving Whernside we had been able to make this path out, once on it we
could not really see where it lead to, as in front of us was the vertical
looking escarpment of Ingleborough. I knew that the map said there was
a path to the summit, there was defiantly a path underfoot (not
even I and my dodgy map reading could miss it!) and loads of people were walking
upon it! Still the question of where this path went remained! |
 |
 |
| Looking back to Whernside |
Where is this path leading us ? |
| Along the path there was the occasional slab
that had been laid crossways. These gave the only opportunity for people
to pass along the way, this I did frequently as ever increasing numbers
of people started to catch up with me. This was beginning to infuriate
John, all the stopping and starting that is. For my part I was glad of
the chance to rest as my feet were really starting to give me some grief
now. During one of these occasions John commented on not liking people
passing him, I couldn't resist and said to John " Let's face it, you are
just not as fit as these people passing us!" Well that was like waving
a red flag at a bull! John set of on a mission . People were literally
knocked aside as he went on his way like a man possessed up the path. I
expected him to wait for me at the top of the next raise. But no, when
I reached the raise all I could see was John disappear into the distance
! |
 |
 |
| So there is a way up after all |
And it got better! |
| When I eventually caught up with John he was waiting at
the foot of the steep section. He had a smug smile on his face that sort
of said " I enjoyed that!" The section in front of us was what had
been puzzling us for some time now, up close we could actually see how
the path made its way up via a few zig zags, it still looked very hard
work so I took the time to put my feet up and have a long drink! I took
the chance to see how the GPS was doing, it was still keeping track of
distance walked, time taken, altitude and where we where, so far so good!
Anyway as we set of for this steep section, the only real steep place we
had come across all day John soon left me standing, like I said by now
about 9 miles into the walk I was really struggling with my feet. |
 |
 |
| Looking back over Humphrey Bottom |
John waiting for me at the top |
| As I climbed up I overheard a couple in front
of wondering about how high they where and how far they had walked. Always
a helpful sort of chap I looked at the GPS and pressed a few buttons to
try and answer there questions. Disaster struck. In my haste I somehow
managed to reset all the trip data! I was gutted! All that I can remember
is 9 miles (I must really think about things before
I start pressing buttons in future!) Feeling very p**sed off with myself I eventually joined John
at the top. |
 |
 |
| Looking back to Whernside |
Looking back down the last steep section before the summit plateau |
| Turning to the right we made our way up towards the summit.
At last, this was more like it, a bit of rock underfoot, something more
like what we are used to! On the way up I came across a lady towing
a dog that had been swapping places with me for quite a while on the path
over Humphrey Bottom. The dog had given up, I thing he was waiting for
the lady's bloke, who by this time was a long way in front. The dog was
not going anywhere without it's master! John was trying to call it from
above, next to the lady without much success. I took the time to have a
chat with the dog (another sneaky breather!) and eventually I talked it
into walking up some more! (at last, someone who listens
to me on the hills!) The lady seemed grateful and soon joined her bloke who got a bit of a telling
off and was handed the lead! |
 |
 |
| The summit plateau |
The wind shelter on Ingleborough's summit |
| After my good samaritan deed we soon reached the summit
plateau. The last few yards up were the best bit of the day for me.
Once on the summit plateau we made our way across to the wind shelter and
trig point. The wind shelter was quite crowded so we made our way over
to the highest point on the summit. |
 |
 |
| The rather large summit cairn |
A wind shelter overlooking Ingleton |
| Over looking Ingleton was another shelter. This appeared
to be the highest point so we spent some time here. I must admit
that I was slightly disappointed with the view. It had become overcast
and the visibility was not as good as when we were on Whernside. |
 |
| 360 degree panorama from the summit
of Ingleborough |
| Taking lots of photo's around the summit I commented to John about me
not minding spending some time here. John did not seem to like this, the
wind had picked up and it started to get a bit cooler, so we soon left
the summit to head back to Ribblehead. |
 |
 |
| Trig Point on Ingleborough summit |
John still raring to go! I'm just happy to be there! |
| We skirted the top of the northern edge of the summit as
we made our way back, the views over to Whernside made me realize just
how far we had come. |
 |
 |
| Whernside and Ribblehead |
A wind shelter on the west side of Ingleborough |
| Most people that were descending headed off towards
Horton, no doubt to finish the three peaks that they had set out to do
much earlier today. We carried straight on back to the point that
we had come up from Humphrey Bottom and soon found ourselves alone for
the first time in ages. |
 |
 |
| The path leaves Ingleborough summit |
Looking towards Simon Fell |
| From the point where we had come up a path started that
followed the steep drop along the side of Simon Fell. This path was a delight
to walk on after so many miles of paving slabs. It made its way around
the side of the fell keeping just above the steep drop down to the left. |
 |
 |
| The path along Simon Fell |
Looking back to Ingleborough |
| To my way of thinking this was a proper path, made by generations
of feet, level and easy to walk along. It just kept going along the
side of the fell keeping at the same height. With the wind behind us we
made good time and started to talk about the differences between what we
had seen of the Yorkshire Dales and the Lake District. We liked what we
had seen, had doubts about the remade paths and looked forward to getting
back to the lakes. |
 |
 |
| The moon above the limestone |
Looking back to Ingleborough |
| Once we reached and passed a wall we stopped for the last
coffee break of the day. John was still hungry so I loaned him one of my
buttys! I just don't feel hungry when I walk anymore, probably all these
first and second breakfasts that I have! I just had a drink and gave
my feet a rest now that we were out of the wind, it had started to get
a bit chilly. |
 |
 |
| Heading for Park Fell |
Looking down to Ribblehead |
| After the wall the path was totally different from before.
It was very indistinct from the wall and I had to check the map to ensure
that we were still on track. We did not go near the summit and soon
began to lose height as we neared Park Fell. There was a depression and
then we had to regain height as we neared the summit of Park Fell. I thought
it would be a good idea to see if the GPS could guide us back to the car
so I set it up to navigate back to the way point that I set when we left
the car. It pointed us towards Ribblehead - Good, and said we still had
over 2.5 miles to go - Bad! |
 |
 |
| Descending to Colt Park |
The locals look on |
| As we started what seemed to me as a steep descent my feet
really started to tell me something! John of course took it all
in his stride but I was reduced to a limp as we made our way down. I really
think it is time that I invest in some new boots. My toes felt like they
were on fire, the tops of my feet felt quite sore, but apart from that
I was OK !, just bloody knackered after 13 miles of walking along mostly
stone paving slabs and roads or repaired paths ! |
 |
 |
| Reaching Colt Park |
The road from Colt Park |
| Eventually we reached level ground near some very old buildings.
From here on it would all be road back to the car, at last there would
be no more descents! It was quite strange to walk along this road.
The Limestone had all been removed to make the road level, it was nice
to walk along though, as by now we had cloudless sky's to follow us back
to the car. Soon we passed over the railway and past the old railway buildings.
John stopped and explored an old kiln that was set back from the road and
built into the hillside just before the railway bridge. We wondered what
it had been used for? |
 |
 |
| The old railway houses |
Whernside in the distance |
Passing by the old railway buildings we reached the
road. The GPS started to count down the distance to go now as we
neared the end of our journey. Walking along the road our pace (well
my pace really as John could still have done the third peak if I
had let him!) dropped off. I was in serious trouble with my
feet, every step hurt now! The GPS slowly counted down the distance,
under half a mile it turned into feet to go. When John's car came
into view the direction indicator on the GPS pointed directly at
the car (Impressed!) When we actually reached John's car the GPS
said that I still had 8 feet still to go! (Very
Impressed!) 8 feet
accuracy after 14.28ish miles and seven and a half hours of walking
(Dogs dangly bits !!) Even I could see that this GPS could be a very
useful tool on the fells in bad weather and given my track record
of navigational skills would be very helpful.
So that was that. Two of the Yorkshire three peaks done, very
tired and sore feet, but the feeling of having done a good walk
in different surroundings, great!
As a sort of footnote when I got back home two things happened.
1, I was in agony and vowed to get some new boots soon and 2, I
connected the GPS up to the PC and opened up the Anquet mapping
software. Although I don't have (yet) the 1:50000 map of the Yorkshire
area, when I uploaded the GPS track log the software opened up
the 1:250000 GB map. There were the three way points that I had
marked during the day. John's car at Ribblehead, Whernside summit
and Ingleborough's summit. It also showed the route between the
points that we had taken! To say that I was impressed is an understatement!
I can't wait for the next Lake District walk so I can see what
this can do with the 1:25000 Harvey's map data that I have (I
know it's a toy or a gimmick but I find it really useful!) .
As far as the boot situation goes, my mother had decided to treat
me to a new pair of boots for my forthcoming birthday! The next
weekend I persuaded mum and dad to come up to Skipton and visit
George Fisher to see what they could do for me. I had read about
there boot fitting service and guarantee. I thought that with the
state of my feet over the last few walks it would be worth the
extra (possible extra) rather than use my local shop or the Decathlon
store in Stockport that my mother wanted to go to. She loves that
shop after being introduced to it in France where it dominates
the outdoor equipment supplies area!
It took nearly an hour and a half to get myself sorted, I had
my feet measured for the first time in years and the staff were
really expert and patient in their service. It turns out that I
have three quarter's size difference between my feet! There I was
trying to stuff a nine and three quarter foot into a size 9! (now
that explains a lot!) We left the shop with a pair of Saloman Adventure
Trek 7's and then enjoyed the market. I now look forward to the
next walk with the prospect of pain free feet! Well let's wait
and see!
|
| The normal link to multi map is below. click on it and see
an aerial photograph with a map overlay. |
| Aerial
Photo link |
|
|
| |