Helvellyn by the Edges

Birkhouse Moor 2355' (1:19 FRCC 78), Helvellyn 3118'( 1:1 FRCC 3), Catstycam 2917' (1:3 FRCC 10).

Wainwright No's 15,16 & 17.
Sunday 9th February 2003.

Weather :- Beautiful blue sky's on the way up, clouding over but clearing again later. Very cold on Striding Edge with a windchill of -6 C and occasional gusts of wind, thick snow and ice above Striding Edge and on Swirral Edge with Helvellyn summit covered with a thin coating of snow.

Accompanied by :- John, Sarah and Mike M.

Total Distance 9 Miles, total height ascended 3020 Feet, time taken 7 1/4 Hours.


Whilst talking with John about possible future walks I have always said that the "best" walks we would have to save until the summer months. This was due to the amount of daylight hours and the lack of snow and ice on the tops that would make progress slow. John started to reminisce about his favorite walks that we have done in the past such as Tryfan, Crib Cogh, Blencathra via Sharp Edge, and Jack's Rake on Pavey Ark. Now, I can see where he is going with this train of thought, and as he thought that the last few Lakeland walks that we have done have been boring I knew that I had to come up with something that would keep him happy, something that would keep that grin on Sarah's face ! With a break in the weather and not much snow left on the tops ( I thought !), I Knew that this was the time to introduce them to Helvellyn and Striding Edge. I was quite happy about this as well because it would be the first recorded entry into the Eastern Fells and also a rather famous and high mountain to keep visitors to the web site happy, not just another low level hill in other words! So agreeing to keep the lower, more boring hills to the autumn and winter months ( Hang on, isn't February a winter month, and are any lakeland fells boring?) we agreed on Helvellyn.

After the last breakfast that we had in Keswick it was defiantly time to revisit McDonalds in Kendal. Supporting the local economy in this way has obviously helped to improve life for the good people of Kendal as they were using our well spent money to resurface the main road (How good is that of us then?). This was keeping the traffic wardens quite busy and we had to park a fair walk away, but we needed the exercise anyway. So suitably nourished, and all for a miserly£1.99 we set off for Glenridding.
 
 
The Nab, the North East Ridge of Birkhouse Moor from the car park in Glenridding.
The path along the left side of Glenridding Beck towards the Mires Beck and Keldas paths.
Ever time that I have climbed Helvellyn from this side in the past I have always had to climb up the Patterdale flank of Birkhouse Moor, either via Keldas or directly from Patterdale. I can honestly say that I have never enjoyed that long climb up to "The-Hole-In-The-Walll". This time, with Birkhouse Moor summit a definate target I thought that another way would be more suitable. AW's description of Birkhouse Moor says that "The north east ridge offers a mild adventure and is a test in route finding amongst low crags. It is the best way up". Now that sounds like our cup of tea! So we dutifully set off, walking out of Glenridding car park, over the bridge, and along the side of Glenridding Beck following the signs for Mires Beck and Keldas.
The Nab from the Gillside Campsite.
After the Keldas path turned of to the left.
The path that we wanted turned right just before the campsite and followed the beck. The view up to the north east ridge was great, it looked like it was going to be a fun route. The path soon started to climb up the fell side and after passing the turn of for the Keldas path climbed even higher alongside a dry stone wall. Where the path left the wall and carried straight on for Mires Beck and right for Red Tarn we left the path and started to make our way up the ridge.
Making our way up the north east ridge.
And further up.
Now although the way up this ridge looked quite good, when it came to actually walking up it it was a different story. As well as being steep, the dead bracken was extremely slippy underfoot and quite often we slipped backwards. This was funny at first but soon got very annoying. The only good thing that I can say about this is that, as John and Mike raced off ahead again as usual ( John says that me and Sarah lagged behind as usual!), I had time to turn my back and look at the great view back over Glenridding.
Panorama over Glenridding showing from the left, Glenridding Dodd, Place Fell and Keldas
Soon the bracken was left behind and we started to gain height amongst the rocky outcrops. This was better fun, John and Mike made their own way up, and as usual Sarah seemed to find difficulty finding her route up when they disappeared from view! At some point along here both John and Sarah decided that they were too warm and started to reduce the number of layers they wore, again! (see the Langdale Pikes) Now John started a conversation about how I get grumpy towards the end of these walks ! This made me think. (Walking up hills is good for inward thinking !) Was I grumpy ?. Or was the concern for the safe return of all members of our party back to civilization, before darkness, in one piece, and without the aid of Mountain Rescue getting to me. Maybe it's time for me to lighten up!
"Where have you all gone?"
Nearing the end of the fun part of the north east ridge.
As we passed the juniper at about the 1300' level, the best part of the climb up the ridge started. I took time out to try for some of those rejuvenating properties of the juniper, as all this inward thinking was giving me a headache!, but as the berry's were not ripe I had to give up! We made our way between the rocky outcrops and gained height quickly. Soon the ridge started to ease out onto moorland and the wide shoulder of Birkhouse Moor.
Place Fell
After the rocky parts the moorland begins
As we started along this moor we were able to see the high fells in front of us for the first time. The cloud was rolling in of the top of Whiteside and Raise. It did not look very inviting so I took the time to put on my nearly waterproof trousers and hat just in case! Even along this easy grass incline Sarah and myself were left behind, this led to a quick chat about the merits of going to a gym 5 nights a week, which two out of the four of us do, or not. I'll let you decide which two go to the gym!
St Sunday Crag and the wall along Birkhouse Moor.
More of Ullswater coming into view over Glenridding Dodd.
As the incline eased we were able to see St Sunday Crag on our left for the first time and the views back over Ullswater just got better and better, maybe AW was right, although it was hard work, climbing Birkhouse Moor this way certainly did give great views backwards, and I certainly needed the time to stop and look back whilst getting my wind back!
Now we all know that this is not the true summit of Birkhouse Moor, but after coming up the north east ridge it felt like it should be, especially when you consider that the true summit is just a little "bump" on the way to Striding Edge!
The cairn at 2318' looking towards Catstycam.
The Terrible Trio plus one on Birkhouse Moor Summit
So we took the time to have a summit photo and panoramic shot from here instead of the true summit where for 180 degrees all you would see is a wall! Mike was experiencing some cramping of his calf muscles at this time, hopefully the easy way up the plateau of Birkhouse Moor would help.
Panorama from Birkhouse Moor to the East
Looking back along Birkhouse Moor
Now that we could see our way forwards, the decision to come up the north east ridge and not use the path up Mires Beck for example, started to worry me. By the time we reached the true summit of Birkhouse Moor we had taken about one and a half hours. On a long summers day this would not have been a problem, but today with it going dark at about 5pm, time was dragging on. I had seen people that had set of behind us disappear up the Mires Beck path along time ago, and as we reached the wall along the top of Birkhouse Moor there was no sign of them.
Looking towards Striding Edge with Helvellyn in the cloud.
The true summit of Birkhouse Moor at 2355'
After all the effort of climbing Birkhouse Moor, and seeing Striding Edge, Helvellyn, and Catstycam before us I realized that the longest part of our walk still lay ahead. Maybe that toil up the recognized paths along Birkhouse Moor would have been a better option after all.
John just about to turn Sarah into a Snowman
The infamous "Hole-in-the-wall"
We quickly made our way along the path by the side of the wall that runs along the summit plateau of Birkhouse Moor towards the infamous "Hole-in-the-wall". As there was quite a lot of snow lying in the lee of the wall John had to have his fun, at Sarah's expense of course, as he threw her into a drift!
"Go on you can trust me!", NOT
Helvellyn still covered in cloud.
This part of the walk was quite fun. We were able to make good time alongside the wall. Ahead, Helvellyn's summit was still hidden in the cloud, but Catstycam was visible rising up to our right. We could see the snow above the end of Striding Edge, would this be a problem to us? Well there was only one way to find out.
The path leading up to High Spying How
St Sunday Crag from High Spying How
As we passed "The-hole-in-the-wall" stomachs began to rumble. As it was quite windy here I decided to press on until High Spying How where we should be able to shelter on the other side of the ridge and have some food. So instead of tracing the true ridge line between High and Low Spying How's we kept to the path up to High Spying How. We could see people coming down the skyline between Catstycam and Swirral Edge.
High Spying How
Lunch time overlooking Nethermost Cove
Here we dropped down slightly to escape from the wind and have lunch. When we left Glenridding we checked the weather forecast at the visitors center and it had suggested that the windchill might take temperatures down to -6. This I could believe as I was feeling very cold. I promptly put on a jumper that I have been carrying in the bottom of my rucksack since last September without using it! From our lunch spot we could look across to St Sunday Crag and Fairfield, and down into Nethermost Cove, seemingly thousands of feet below us, isn't height deceptive!
The start of Striding Edge
A bit further along the Edge
Suitably refreshed and feeling a bit warmer we set of along the highlight of the walk. Striding Edge is probably the most famous ridge in the whole Lake District. It is a fantastic place to walk along. One minute you are walking along a broad shoulder of rock, the next you are on a knife edge ridge. The contrast between the two is so dramatic and sudden it makes you wonder if you have missed something along the way!
The Dixon Memorial
A level bit along Striding Edge
About twenty feet below the top of High Spying How, overlooking Nethermost Cove you come across the Dixon Memorial. It is sited on a level area and can quite easily be missed during the traverse of Striding Edge. It was erected over 145 years ago in 1858 and has stood the test of time and the elements well. The inscription reads: "In memory of Robert Dixon of Rooking Patterdale who was killed on this place on the 27th day of Nov 1856 following the Patterdale foxhounds"
Looking back to High Spying How
And looking forwards from the same point.
With time pressing I tried to make quick progress along the edge. Normally Striding Edge is a place to stay and dawdle along at a slow pace that lets you marvel at the surroundings, taking your time to enjoy the sense of exposure below you, and how lucky you are to be here, and not elsewhere on a Sunday afternoon.
It really did feel cold and bleak along Striding Edge.
Brrrr....
Usually there literally is a queue along the Edge, of people waiting their turn to enjoy the experience. Not today. Behind us there was a sum total of none! We were the last people to venture along Striding Edge as far as I could see. There was a few party's making their way down, but nobody coming up behind us, this was obviously due to our late start, the different route we took up Birkhouse Moor and the late time of day. Did everyone else know something that we didn't?
The climb up from the end of Striding Edge looked interesting !
Looking back along Striding Edge.
As we approached the mid point we could make out a party of walkers trying to make their way down from the summit. They were at the top of a snow field above the rough scramble up from Striding Edge and seemed hesitant about the way down. Mmmm.....
Striding out on Striding Edge
Looking back along the Edge.
This part of Striding Edge is great fun. You can walk forward with great strides along the ridge top. The passage of hob nail boots, crampons and ice axes over the years have left the rock scratched and scared all along the top sections of the ridge. Now we are more environmentally friendly and use Vibram soled boots so as not to mark the rock anymore! (You see, I can be politically correct and environmentally friendly when I want to be!)
Still a way to go !
Looking back
As we got nearer to the end of the ridge, the rough scramble that I had warned the others about began to take on a more sinister look. I can look back at my previous times over Striding Edge and say that like the toil up Birkhouse Moor, the last scramble up from the Edge to the summit plateau was never enjoyable! Today all the loose scree was covered in snow and ice. Would this make it even harder than normal?
Looking back from near the end of Striding Edge.
There are downs as well as ups along Striding Edge
All this thinking was doing me no good, so I contented myself with the views back along the ridge as I waited for the others to catch up. I think that they had the right idea, taking their time and enjoying the experience. At the end of the day, time spent on Striding Edge will always be remembered. I can think of few places that give such a sense of excitement, a feeling of height and that mild sense of awe as you look back and think to yourself "Have I just been along that, WOW!!!"
The author climbing up from Striding Edge towards the summit, I'm the one that is not flying!.
Striding Edge from above.
With Striding Edge completed we now faced the unpleasant prospect of the final scramble up to the summit. The start of this is actually quite enjoyable as you scramble up easy rocks and boulders. We could still see the party above us slowly descending, trying to find the best route down.
The end of Striding Edge and the beginning of the toil up the last obstacle before Helvellyn's summit.
And a bit further up.
As we came into the snow we soon began to understand their predicament. Which was the best line up? Was it in the snow that had ice just below the surface, or along the frozen rock? Thankfully we were going up and not down. I think that we chose the safest way up, in the snow. After some words of warning about kicking steps and ensuring at least two good hand and foot holds at all times (It made sense to me!), and even stronger words about not falling off !, we soon made upward progress.
Maybe it wasn't such a toil after all in these conditions.
No, it was definitely fun in the snow !
As the gradient eased the snow became deeper and easier to walk up, in fact it became great fun! Unfortunately this snow did not carry on for long, it was only below the summit plateau where it had been gathered by the wind. By this time the weather had brightened up considerably and the top was at last out of the clouds. As I was carefully watching where I placed my feet at the time, I noticed a small object in the snow. It just had a small ariel sticking up out of the snow, at first I thought it was a mobile phone, but it turned out to be a small two way radio. Putting it in my pocket I began to think how I could return it to it's rightful owners. As this was taking my concentration away from where I was placing my feet, I promptly forgot about it!
Looking back over Striding Edge from the Gough Memorial
The Gough Memorial
One great thing about coming up of Striding Edge is that when that last bit of scrambling is over the summit is there. All of a sudden you are able to see for miles and miles. The Gough Memorial awaits you as you crest onto the summit plateau. It stands in the perfect place for a last look back along Striding Edge. This memorial was erected in 1890 to commemorate the death in 1803 of Charles Gough from Kendal. Whilst out walking his dog he fell from Striding Edge to his death. Three months later his body was found with his faithful dog still beside him. I like dogs, but they form a common denominator between the Gough and Dixon Memorials. Both remembered for being killed by falling from Striding Edge whilst in the presence of mans best friend! I am not into conspiracy theory's, but.........
The summit from the Gough Memorial
The memorial to the fact that someone landed a plane and took of again!
With the weather clearing up nicely we made our way along the summit to the path that comes up from Nethermost Pike. A short way along this path lies the third memorial. This commemorated the fact that some intrepid pilots back in 1926, not only managed to land a plane on Helvellyn's summit but also took of again and safely flew back to Woodvale near Southport. Obviously the pilots did not bring a dog with them for the ride! Like I said, I am not into conspiracy theory's, honest. But it does make you wonder....
Sunbathing or just worn out after the climb up from Striding Edge ? You decide !
Helvellyn summit
The other three had enjoyed the snow so much that they just had to immerse themselves in the full winter experience and promptly laid down to catch a few rays. The weather had really cleared now and we did have some bright late afternoon sunshine, not enough for proper sunbathing but you have to make the most of what you get!
The Terrible Trio plus one on Helvellyn summit
An alternative way up from Red Tarn
As we made our way past the shelter and up to the trig point we noticed a few climbers coming up the snow field from Red Tarn. Someone was even doing a good impression of scree running down one of the snow filled gully's. This got John and Sarah's attention, sometimes I don't know who has the most youthfully exuberance of a child, this pair, or my 10 year old daughter Charlotte!
Panorama over Red Tarn from Helvellyn summit
There is something really special about the summit of Helvellyn. If you come up from the Ullswater side, after a long toil you are suddenly presented with the top. Being over 3000' high (notice that I say 3000' and not 914 meters, more on this later) you get a good view. But because Helvellyn is sited far from other high ground, you really can see for miles and miles. It is one of the few summits that make you feel on top of the world. I must be one of the few lucky people who has always managed to get a view from the summit, I have never yet been in cloud up here! and today was no exception.
Anyway, to the south Morecambe Bay was visible, to the north west the Solway Firth and Bonnie Scotland, to the east the Pennines and to the west the Scafell range dominated the skyline. Really, it does not ge much better than this. The late afternoon sun made for some wonderful vistas, with long shadows cast by Helvellyn itself adding to the wonder.
360 degree Panorama from Helvellyn trig point
Bassenthwaite, Ullswater, Windermere and Coniston Water were all visible from up here, and the view north towards Skiddaw and Blencathra just took your breath away!
Panorama looking to the Northern fells over Whiteside
The feeling of wanting to linger here was strong, days like today are few and far between. But with the sun beginning to set behind the Scafell's, and with Catstycam and the long walk back to Glenridding still ahead we had to leave this wonderful place behind.
Looking back to Helvellyn summit from above Swirral Edge
Swirral Edge
Taking one last look back to Helvellyn's summit we began the descent of Swirral Edge. Swirral Edge is much shorter and steeper than Striding Edge, and like the way off Striding Edge was covered in snow. This was great fun for the other three but I was beginning to have my doubts. Like the party we had watched picking their way down to Striding Edge I was gingerly making my way slowly, very slowly, down.
Mike leading the way down Swirral edge.
Leaving me behind !
Making my way down Swirral Edge was very difficult for me, the other three totally enjoyed the experience, but I was reminded of a story told by my parents about a friend of theirs who slipped on ice and fell to their death on Helvellyn. I had mentioned this to the others as a warning on the way up Striding Edge, as I know what they are like! Basically I was having an "Eicky moment". An "Eicky moment", something that I made up on the spot, is derived from a trip up Jack's Rake in February last year. After a monumental Friday night in a Camping Barn in Kentmere I took a group of colleagues up to the Langdales (some would say dragged or forced!). Out of 12 who set of we all made it to Stickle Tarn, 7 made it the start of Jack's Rake and 4 completed the Rake up to Pavey Ark! They were myself, John, Mike M, and Mike Eicke. Mike E is a terrifically fit bloke but would not normally do any hill walking. At the end of the Rake he made a mad dash for a boulder that he could put his arms round and started muttering things like "Thank you mother... You Ba*****", and other such stuff! Basically he had no head for heights. This caused many a laugh, but believe me I really know how he felt as I contemplated the descent of Swirral Edge under snow!
Striding Edge from Swirral Edge
The other three laughing at me and my panic attack
Taking the time to take one last photo of Striding Edge, I announced that I was having an "Eicky Moment" to the rest. Why I expected anything else apart from laughter is beyond me, so I wasn't disappointed by the reaction. Can you imagine the feeling I have as I type this account of mortal danger that I found out that the story from my parents is incorrect! As I like to be factual, I rang my parents, currently on a journey down the Adriatic Coast of Italy, to ensure that the story was correct (aren't mobile phones wonderful!). I, or rather they had got it wrong! It wasn't Helvellyn but Ben Nevis, and it wasn't someone that they knew anyway!, or was it the time my mother did fall on Helvellyn and ripped her trousers only to have them repaired with sticky tape by my dad! (Need I say anything about the onset of old age!) I could have had fun like the rest of them, charging down the snow on Swirral Edge, but no, I had to go and believe what my parents told me! Next, someone is going to tell that the Tooth Fairy isn't real and there is no Wardrobe Monster!!
Looking back up Swirall Edge
Catstycam summit appearing out of the shadow of Helvellyn
After somehow getting down Swirral Edge in one piece I took the time to think about what to do next. Catstycam summit was right there in front of us, but we were now in shadow and dusk was beginning to fall. We still had a long walk back to Glenridding in front of us and I was definitely thinking about missing out on Catstycam and returning directly to Glenridding. I voiced this opinion to the others, they all said that we should wait until we get to the path down and make the decision then. After coming up with excuses about daylight, having no more memory available in the camera, and other such stuff I was persuaded to carry on and do Catstycam. I was quite glad about this really, as we have missed out on "bagging" a few peaks before that will mean an awkward return trip to "bag" them sometime in the future. We carried on up the ridge to the summit of Catstycam, the others racing ahead as I frantically tried to make room on the memory card for a shot of the summit of Catstycam! (Imagine my disappointment as I remembered that there was another memory card in my rucksack that I had packed the night before, just in case!. The problem was I remembered this in the car on the way home! What did I say about the onset of old age !)
Ullswater from Catstycam summit
Catstycam summit
Arriving at the summit of Catstycam any feeling of not doing it disappeared. I have never been up here before but I can recommend it to anyone. I suppose it is all too easy to take the path down to Red Tarn instead of carrying on up the ridge to Catstycam's summit. This is truly a mountain peak, if only it was separate from Helvellyn, a sharp summit that is definitely down in all directions! Here on the summit, with the sun setting behind Helvellyn we were presented with such fantastic views to the east. The long shadows cast by the setting sun again made us feel on top of the world! Sadly I had been unable to make enough room in the memory card of the camera that I was unable to take any panoramic shots, but the views over Ullswater were fantastic.
John, Sarah and Mike on Catstycam summit
The terrible trio on Catstycam summit
With the sun setting over Helvellyn the path down Red Tarn Beck was already in shadow so I knew that we would be arriving back at Glenridding in the dark. After mentioning this John suggested that we should carry on straight over Catstycam and down, I knew that my knee's could not cope with that so I set off back down the path to Swirral Edge, the others followed thankfully! As we joined the path down to Red Tarn John had one last slide down the snow for good luck. The path down from Swirral Edge to the end of Red Tarn at last gave me the chance to walk without too much thinking so I turned my attention back to the radio that I had found at the end of Striding Edge. I was thinking about how to return it to it's rightful owners, would it be the police station (is there one in Glenridding ?), the visitors center (probably shut when we get there) As I thought, I started to mess around with the buttons to see if I could get it to work when it started squawking at me. Suitable impressed I pressed a few more buttons and then miraculously I heard a voice. After a few more attempts the person on the other radio started to give instructions on how to use it properly, now that was sensible of him as I didn't really have a clue! Soon we started the "where are you, where did you find it?" sort of conversation. We somehow agreed that I would drop it of at the Youth Hostel in Glenridding, this was good of me as I don't know where that fine establishment is!
So feeling rather pleased with myself for this good samaritan deed we continued down the Red Tarn Beck path towards the Greenside Mine. This path is a very good example of how, if you have to repair paths, it should be done. It was relatively easy underfoot with no uneven steps or unexpected trip hazards along the way. It wound its way down in a very gentle way and in the reverse direction, as a way to reach Helvellyn, it must be the easiest way. Even so, by the time we crossed the footbridge and made our way to the Greenside Mine my feet were killing me. My toes felt as if they were on fire, but at least it made a change from my knee's! After a quick stop for a drink we set off again . As we passed through the old mine buildings I noticed that one of them belonged to Arnold School, a private school near where I live, and then we saw a Youth Hostel, the sign said Helvellyn Youth Hostel and as there was no sign of life I took this to mean that it wasn't the one we were supposed to drop of the radio. With darkness all around us John started to notice the stars. It was turning out to be one of those clear nights. Even though it was pitch black the road that we were now walking upon held no difficulties and did not really require the head torch that I was using. The radio beeped into life again and we agreed to meet in the car park, this soon changed to the pub, even better. Whilst I was having these conversations the others tried to enter the chat with "10/4's, roger -wilco and over and out's". This produced many a laugh on our end, it was turning out to be a great end to a great walk! I ended up giving Sarah the radio to arrange final meeting instructions, and just to confuse the other people as well. All too soon the Traveler's Rest appeared out of the darkness and the lost radio and its owners were reunited. Kindly, they asked us if we wanted a drink. It was gratefully accepted and we made our way inside, John of course got stuck in the narrow entrance doors, still with his rucksack on!
We then spent an enjoyable half hour having a drink and a chat with these people. I am useless with names but I am sure that there was a Nathaniel and a Kevin, if you ever read this drop me an E-Mail and I will put the correct names here. They had come up to the Lake's from Slough for a few days. Doing the same walk as us but in the opposite direction it turned out to be the party that we had passed above Striding Edge! After all agreeing that it had been a great walk, with quite a lot of challenging bits due to the snow, we thanked them for the drink and parted company. (Isn't it great to know that one good turn begets another in this day and age, cheers fella's). Back out of the pub and along the road, turning left into the Medical Center, through the wall, and there was Mike's car only 2 places away. Was that good planning on my part or what?
So ended a great walk. Strding Edge and Helvellyn is always tough but enjoyable. With the addition of the North East Ridge of Birkhouse Moor, Catstycam, clear views, and a return to the car in darkness, coupled with a good deed, which was reciprocated, it was one of the most enjoyable days on the fell's I have had in a long time.
Map for todays walk.