| Grange Fell and Great Crag |
| Grange Fell 1363' (3:22 FRCC 200) and Great Crag 1500' (3:20 FRCC 188) |
Wainwright
No's 63 & 64. Saturday 13th March 2004. |
Weather :- Overcast and cool with the odd spot of rain. Accompanied by :- John and Sarah. Total Distance 5 Miles , total height ascended 1950 Feet, time taken 4 Hours 40 min's.
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This was to be a funny sort of walk, funny as far as
planning goes that is. John was in great form again, so I guess it was
funny that way too! It was not until early on in the week that I checked
with Sarah if she was still OK for a walk on Saturday, we had planned
this on the last outing but she seemed to have forgotten (obviously
having too much fun on nights out and shopping and stuff!) After
having first checked with John she eventually agreed as long as I found
a non-windy walk as her face had not recovered from the last one (??) With
the way the weather was forecast this might be a bit difficult, in fact
when I first started to check the weather it was for rain, rain and more
rain! This changed by midweek but it still did not look too promising. I woke up to lots of clouds and it soon started to rain. Meeting John and Sarah at Preston even later than usual they told me about the heavy rain that they had driven through, oops! John soon cheered us all up and within five minutes he had us in stitches, Sarah and I just shaking our heads at his humor! This still did not solve the planning of today's walk though! I showed Sarah a few alternatives and did my best to describe them to her. When I talked about a couple of fells that were sort of surrounded by higher fells, something that might offer shelter she liked the sound of it! We decided to wait and see what the weather looked like the nearer we got. As it was we had to drive through lots of rain and seemed to spend a long time actually in the clouds! Turning off the M6 at Penrith
we had to laugh at the signs for the Saturday market again. I would
love to meet the person who decided what to put on the signs, if you
ever see them you will know what I mean, funny! They even change week
by week; the wording seems to work, as it is always busy there. Driving
up the A66 towards Keswick my plan A of Bannerdale Crags was forgotten
about; we could not even see the fells, never mind the tops! I had also
thought about Raven Crag and High Rigg, they failed the Sarah test as
well. The nearer we got to Borrowdale the brighter it became, this cheered us up because I think that we had all become resigned to the fact that we would be getting wet today, now that we had found a walk to do and a fair chance that we could stay dry put the smiles back on our faces! The only problem was that I had really not thought of doing this walk today, I did not know where to park or which paths to take, I was nearly unprepared! Deciding to hedge our bets somewhat I suggested that we park mid way between various footpaths marked on the map. As it happed there was just enough space for one car at the start of a path, how lucky is that then! This happened to be directly opposite the river from Castle Crag so we had a few minutes reminiscing about the day that we did it.
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| The start of the footpath | and slightly higher up |
As well as getting ready we also commenced some stretching exercises, they had been suggested by Sarah's better half. This was funny as we did not know what we were supposed to do so we all did our own thing. I suppose that John new what to do but when I tried to copy him I just kept nearly falling over! Once we had all been stretched we set of walking. As I have said we had parked just by a stile and a footpath led from it upwards through all of the dead bracken. This soon got us higher up the fell side, the only problem was that there seemed to be any number of different paths about! One led up to a slight outcrop that had a good view and then we were able to see a path that definitely went up in the direction we wanted. |
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| Looking back over to Castle Crag | Heading up the fell side |
It was easy to walk on and we made good progress even though it was slow as I was in the front! I was expecting John to race past me at any minute but he seemed quite happy walking at my pace, I think it was his turn for a cold and blocked nose this time. There were a few Yew trees scattered across the fell side, the greens of these trees made an interesting contrast to the dark golden colours of the dead bracken. After passing through a wall the path started to make its way steeper up the fell side and into the trees. At one point there was even a cairn to mark a turn in the path. A bit after this we came to a point that the path seemed to go in two directions. They seemed to work a way around a section of rocky outcrops. I just could not make my mind up which way to go. I wanted to go left and Sarah wanted to go right. After a few seconds thought I proposed a compromise, straight up! |
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| A conspicuous Yew tree | Into the trees |
Sarah's face lit up and straight up we went. I guess it was not real scrambling as a fair amount of tree climbing was involved as well but it was fun anyway! All this exertion took its toll on me and when we reached the top I suggested a break. To be honest I was absolutely starving, I had felt hungry for hours now so I tucked into some sandwiches whilst John and Sarah just had a drink. John was on a new drink today, some sort of fluid that rinses out or cleanses your system. Sarah tried some and after the first taste decided that it tasted worse the further it got into her, or something like that! |
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| A choice of routes ! | |
Whilst we sat here we looked over the river towards Castle Crag and talked about the way we had gone up it, we could even see some people on the summit rock. John pointed out a couple of sheep that had sneaked up on us, perhaps they wanted to see what all the fuss was about. Apart from the odd bird or two flying about it was very, very quiet, I think that we must have become accustomed to the noise of the wind during the last few walks, today the silence was very strange! The sheep must have come to see what was disturbing their saturday afternoon rest. |
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| Heading up the between the crags | I would have gone that way up! |
We looked around for some signs of a path but as the only one that we could see was inhabited by resting sheep John decided that we should continue to head straight up the fell side instead of disturbing the sheep. This was fine by me but it was hard work trying to make our way straight up. The grass and dead bracken was slippy and the odd bit of scree was quite loose. Here we were again, off the beaten track and making our own route upwards, this brought a smile to my face, it always seems to be harder work than keeping to a path but much more fun! We were making a way upwards between some crags and as John reached an area below the crag he started to ask about which way. To the right seemed to be higher ground but I wanted to visit the top of King's How which was to the left (I hoped!) Heading underneath this large crag I was surprised that John did not fancy a crack at it, I guess he was just not in the mood. |
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| A shaft of sunlight on Seatoller | Nearing Kings How |
From here we found a path of sorts, possibly a sheep track that led in the general direction that I wanted. Once out into the open the fell side leveled out and we even came across a few cairns that led up towards what I hoped was King's How. We could now see a fair way in front of us and I knew that we were on the summit plateau. I was sure that it was Brund Fell that we could see away to our right so we must be on King's How (mustn't we!) Very soon we arrived at a point where it was down in all directions. It offered great views over Derwent water and I guessed this was it. I was happy, we were dry, at the top of something, I had not lagged behind, we had a good view and all was well with the world! |
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| Derwent Water | More sunlight over Borrowdale |
John and Sarah seemed a bit confused as to why we were here when the actual summit of Grange Fell was Brund Fell, and that was over there! We could clearly see a path that led over towards Brund Fell as well as a path that zig zagged down from King's How (I had now decided that we WERE at King's How!) The only problem was there was no sign of the memorial tablet that had made me want to come here in the first place! |
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| Kings How summit cairn | Grange |
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| A panorama from Kings How showing Ether Knott and Brund Fell, the other tops of Grange Fell. | |
Feeling a bit miffed we set of for Brund Fell. As we made our way down I felt like I wanted to follow this path down until I did find the memorial! I was talking about this with John and Sarah and John thought it was a bit strange. Just as he said something back to me I looked around and there it was, just below the summit of King's How and just off the path we were walking on, John had managed to walk straight past it. I was made up! I struggled to read the inscription as it had “v”'s instead of “u”'s but John helped me out. In fact he was twice as far away as me and could read it better than me (anybody know a good optician!) |
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| The Edward VII memorial | and a close up |
Now that I was happy again we headed straight down towards the path, a stile was below us and down a steep path seemed like the natural choice. Sarah managed to loose her footing once and ended up on her backside, after that I took my time and looked out for Sarah. John meanwhile went even faster down hill, jumping down and around without a care in the world. He had just seen an old sheepfold that he announced loudly to us was going to be our lunch spot! I commented that John must never have had an ankle injury the way he was going downhill! |
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| Heading for Brund Fell | Brund Fell |
We arrived at the old sheep fold and settled down for lunch. I finished of my sandwiches as John got out his homemade chicken soup and Sarah had some tomato soup, she even managed to get some of it onto her nose, this looked quite humorous! Over in the distance we could see someone standing on top of one of the rocky tops of Brund Fell, that looked interesting. Coming down from King's How were a couple with a dog. After watching them for a few minutes I told Sarah that the dogs name was Charlie. I guess my hearing is not as bad as my eyesight! This proved to be the right name and as we packed up and set off again Charlie and its owners walked past us. John bribed Charlie with some of his organic chocolate and all of a sudden we had a new walking companion! |
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| Looking back to Kings How | The path to Brund Fell |
We enjoyed a few minutes with the company of Charlie and his owners, it had even started to brighten up. I'm not saying that the sun was out but it definitely felt warmer and looked brighter. At a stile over a wall we parted company and crossed over the wall and headed for Brund Fell. As we reached the start of some crags John left us to investigate a walled enclosure directly under the crags, well that's what he told us but I think that stuff he had been drinking to help clear his system out was having the desired effect, if you know what I mean! Sarah and myself carried on up a steeper section until we saw a party of walkers coming down from our left. Although the path was indistinct I knew that it was the way we wanted. I smiled at the other walkers and was ready to say hello when they marched straight past us without a nod, they must have been old people or something! |
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| Along the top of Brund Fell | One of the many rocky outcrops on Brund Fell |
Reunited with John we headed up the way they came down and soon found ourselves on the top of Grange Fell. Now Grange Fell is one of those confusing places. It is made up of various high points, King's How, Ether Knott and Brund Fell. Brund Fell is the highest and so it is the top of Grange Fell. Saying that, Brund Fell is made up of various rocky tops itself so it gets even more confusing trying to figure out which one is the highest and so being, the summit of Grange Fell! I headed for one whilst John and Sarah made for another. Only when I got to the top of mine did I realize that I had made the wrong choice. I retraced my steps and followed John and Sarah to what was the top of Brund Fell and hence the summit of Grange Fell (I was confused as well!) |
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| Kings How | The summit of Grange Fell, Brund Fell |
| for the first time today I was playing catch up. I did not mind this at all now as it was not due to my feet or fitness, it was due to a navigation error. Well when you are on top of Grange Fell I suppose this can be excused as you can take your pick of places that look like the highest! Eventually I arrived at the top to join some patient walkers who kindly waited for me! | |
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| The terrible trio at Grange Fell summit | Grange Fell summit cairn |
| I have to say that I was completely impressed with Grange Fell. It is the sort of place that you could spend hours just walking around. The top of Kings How gave great views over Derwent Water and Brund Fell seemed to offer all sorts of little outcrops to climb or look around. That feeling of missing out on the rain and having a dry walk coupled with an unorthodox approach just seemed to mean something special today. It is really hard to put in to words but for some reason I thought today was different, something special. | |
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| 360 degree panorama from Grange Fell | |
| Whilst John and Sarah were in deep conversation about weddings (a couple that we work with) and jobs on cruise liners ( a good friend of John's) I quickly took the usual summit photos. It seemed such a shame to tell them to move out of the way, but they looked so out of place where they were! When I had finished with the camera I joined in the conversation. What were we going to do next? We could find another route back to the car or have a walk over to another summit, namely Great Crag. On the map the route to Great Crag did not look too promising, a no direct path sort of thing, but then again it was only over there ! We had a look at the lay of the land and seemed to be able to see a path of sorts that led in the right direction, Sarah decided that we should head that way, a sort of "while we are here" sort of thing! | |
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| Looking towards Great Crag | Leaving Grange Fell |
| With this decided we headed down towards the path that we could see. This soon turned into a route between the rocks that had seen many feet in the past. Perhaps it was a way up from Watendlath, whatever the reason when we reached the wall there was a stile or ladder thing waiting for us to cross it. On the other side of the wall the way towards Great Crag was much more indistinct. Even so it was obvious that previous Wainwright baggers had been here before as there was a faint track that led in the direction of Great Crag. | |
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| One of the many paths along Brund Fell | Following a path besides the wall towards Great Crag |
| This track sometimes kept to the wall and sometimes left it to avoid boggy areas. The wall or the path that followed the wall kept us walking in the direction that led towards Pudding Stone Bank marked on the OS map. Looking at the Anquet map based on the Harvey's Maps that I had printed out, and the OS map that I also carried I was confused about the paths. I suppose this is just another example of footpaths on the ground not agreeing with footpaths shown on maps. This one that we walked on was definitely there but not shown on the map, confusing or what! Sarah started to tell us about a recent night out in Liverpool, or was it 2 nights out that I seemed to blur into one? Whichever it was I became distracted by some thing that caught my eye. I started to see lots of wool on the ground , up here this | |
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usually denotes a sheep's body nearby. This time it was even worse. We came across something hanging from a fence that ran alongside the wall. At first we could not figure out what it was but a closer inspection revealed it to be the leg of a sheep. This sheep had obviously been trying to climb over the wall but had somehow managed to get it's leg wrapped up in the wire fence. As it had tried to get over it had become trapped by the leg upside down, there was no way that the sheep could have freed it's self from this. Not far away was the rest of the carcass, as it happened a ram with large horns. It was just bones now, picked clean by a fox |
| A sheep's leg trapped in a fence, all that was left | |
| and whatever else wanted a free meal. This sight upset us, it must have been a terrible end for the ram, absolutely helpless and unable to move. John made some comments about the poor state of repair of the wall and fence, wanting to blame the farmer for this. I started thinking about these walls, why put a fence there as well, sheep do climb onto walls. This wire fence was just as good as putting a trap there to catch any animal that made its way over the wall. It put a somber mood onto the walk for quite a while. Leaving this grisly sight behind we continued down towards the path that goes between Watendlath and Rosthwaite. This seemed to be a popular place as lots of walkers crossed perpendicular (that's a big word!) to our path. Our way was straight across this path, luckily for us we were able to see a path on the ground even though the maps tended to agree that there was not one! For the next ten or twenty minutes we followed a track or path of sorts directly towards Great Crag. The weather turned more overcast and it got much colder. in fact the only thing that kept us cheerful was the view behind us that revealed Watendlath (only if you stopped to look back like I did!) and Sarah's story about the night out in Liverpool. A tip that I learned from this story is that if you spill red wine onto a white top, buy a white wine and mix the two together! Failing this have another red wine and forget about it! | |
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| Great Crag | A helpful signpost |
| As we came to another wall and passed through a" kissing gate" Great Crag lay before us. It was there right ahead and from here looked like it offered a fun way up. All we had to do was head straight for the crags and find our own way up, was that going to be fun or what! The only problem was a little National Trust sign that asked us to follow the posts and not try the direct route! Looking back as I reread AW's Central Fells book, there seemed to be an area of "wetland" or as best I can figure it "Bog Myrtle" (whatever that is ! ) between us and Great Crag. John looked at the little tree/shrub/flower things that lay before us and suggested that it was heather, I was not convinced, perhaps, it was Bog Myrtle after all. Needless to say we followed the posts and soon found ourselves walking around an area that that did not seem to invite walkers anyway. The National Trust posts soon had us heading around this area of whatever and before we knew it the path up towards Great Crag was before us. | |
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| Watendlath | Heading up the path towards Great Crag |
| John soon decided that he needed to clear his system out again and I decided that I needed a coffee break! From where we stopped Sarah decided that Great Crag looked liked it was going to take us ages to walk up, I looked up and thought that it was a similar thing to the last walk of the terrible trio. Sarah thought Causey Pie looked hard work from Rowling End whilst I thought it was not as bad as it seemed! I have to say that I think that I was right, the path was easy, in fact it was made up of big stones that made upwards progress easy! | |
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| Nearing the steep section | On the steps |
| Passing through a wall we found ourselves on a remade path that headed up the steep fell side towards a depression to the left of Great Crag. As I look back at the AW central fells book he shows an old wall up here. I am sure that the stone from the old wall had been used to make the steps that we now walked on, how's that for recycling! Once at the top of the steps the path continued on towards Dock Tarn. We turned off to the right and headed up a path through the heather until we reached the summit of Great Crag. | |
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| Great Crag summit | The terrible trio at Great Crag summit |
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| 360 degree panorama from Great Crag | |
| Great Crag as a name is great, but by walking to it from this direction we had not really seen any crags at all, a bit of a disappointment really. We had no desire to stay up here any longer than necessary, the views around us were OK but nothing special, apart from two things. Another shaft of sunlight shone down into Borrowdale which made me think how lucky they had been down there today and the strange sight of the top of Pike O'Stickle sticking up above High Raise. It was funny how that little dome of rock looked from this direction. | |
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| Great Crag summit cairn | More sunlight on Borrowdale |
| With the weather turning colder we started to retrace our steps back towards the Rosthwaite - Watendlath path. We had talked about continuing on to Dock Tarn and then down into Stonethwaite to make a full circuit but that would have involved a fair amount of road walking that we did not fancy, so it was retrace our steps and back down into Borrowdale. | |
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| The northern top of Great Crag | Retracing our steps back down |
| At least by retracing our steps we had the chance to look over Watendlath and talk about a future planned walk that involves using the bus from Keswick to Watendlath and return to Keswick on foot via the central spine of the Lake District. I must admit that I am looking forwards to that walk, it will be something different. | |
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| A panorama of Grange Fell from Great Crag | |
| At the top of the section of the path that was
made of stepping stones I stopped to take a panoramic photo. It looked
a bit bleak from up here with nothing to really capture your sight, just
miles and miles of moorland, but I think that AW had it right when he said; "On the right sort of day ( warm sunshine) and at the right time of year (August) the top of Great Crag, carpeted with lovely heather, is quite the right place to be" Not today though! |
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| Looking towards Grange Fell | Looking down the steep section |
| Making my way down the path I stepped onto the grass by the side to let a couple of lady's pass going up to the top. I found the grass much easier to walk down than the steps. John noticed this and told me off! He mentioned things about path erosion and stuff. I had to reply about the number of accidents caused when descending these sorts of remade paths, they are OK going up but much worse when going down. sarah thought about this for a while before joining me on the grass! | |
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| Heading back towards Grange Fell | Nearing the Rosthwaite - Watendlath path |
| We followed the posted track around the Bog Myrtle stuff and soon reached the wall. From here it was back along the faint track and Sarah was soon a bit confused as she did not recognize where we were. I have noticed this before about Sarah, whenever we have retraced our steps she always seems to have no recollection about walking there before! Walking back this way was definitely worse than the first time, it just seemed so boring! | |
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| The path down to Rosthwaite | And a bit further down |
| Back at the main path we turned downhill and headed of back to Borrowdale. Sarah was upset with me as I mentioned the dead sheep again, she had managed to forget about it by now. She will probably kill me for writing about it here! To try and take her mind of it we started to talk about work, I know, I know!!!, but it had to be done!!! | |
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| And again! | Leaving the Rosthwaite path |
| To be honest me and John vented a bit of steam on the way down here. Sarah used to work with us, in fact she told us what to do and where to go (no you misunderstand, that was her job!) She used to do it in such a way that everyone was happy, the customers, the company, us, her, everybody! That's enough of that, I cannot for legal reasons say what happens now, but it is not as good as when Sarah was there. | |
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| Along the path below the trees | Rosthwaite |
| With steam coming out of my ears I decided that it was time for a last coffee break. It's amazing how some caffeine, a bit of nicotine and a good old rant can cheer me up! Very soon I was myself again, calm, collected and ready to go again. The path that we were on made its way under a wood and then into the wood itself. I have a thing about paths and I liked this one! It made its way down, along, and through the trees, great! Sarah even started to crack a few jokes that she had heard on the radio, this walk was ending the way it started, with a laugh and a joke. | |
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| Through the trees | And finally back to the road |
We eventually reached the road, what a place to park a car! Here was space for loads of cars and we had missed it, well we had not traveled this far up the road so I can be excused. Back onto the road and after a few corners we found the car just where we left it. Sarah seemed to dislike this last bit of road walking but on the whole I thought that the walk had been a good one. We had expected to get wet and we didn't. Sarah wanted a less windy walk and she got it. John, although he never admitted it, was a bit under the weather so it was OK for him. I had managed to keep up and not lagged behind at all (always a bonus!), not much pain in my feet (a definite plus!), a bit of making our own way, a small bit of scrambling, a memorial, and that thought of having a dry walk instead of a wet one all made me thouroughley enjoy today! All we now needed was a pub to finnish the day off! |
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| GPS Track log from today's walk | |
| We needed a change from the Cross Keys in Tebay. I had suggested that we drive back down south via Grasmere and Ambleside but not really knowing any good pubs we plumped for a location that we knew well. I know it was not on the direct route home but Pooley Bridge just seemed to be calling out for a visit! I was looking forwards to the gammon and eggs in the Sun Inn. When we arrived at about 5.40pm the pub was busy, what seemed to be a hen party was in full swing, and they say I can't plan anything! John helped the situation by calling out very loudly "Hi there!" as soon as he walked in, every one turned around to see who it was and seemed a bit confused when all they saw was us! Unfortunately they did not start serving food until 6pm so we reluctantly left and went down to the Crown. I have nothing against this pub, but it seems to me that you can visit a pub like this any where near home. It's not a Lake District pub if you know what I mean. John seems to like it though, "Hi there!" and he was welcomed with open arms this time, well that is until his first two choices of the menu were not available (again!) The food came and we tucked in. Sarah seemed to have trouble with her hand / mouth co-ordination, especially when it came to dessert! Very soon the table, Sarah's legs, the seats, and finally the floor were all sampling Sarah's ice cream, and I though I could be a messy eater! This made us laugh again and we tried to clean up her mess as best we could before making a hasty retreat. This had been a great day out, made even better by no traffic jams on the M6 on the way home. I am glad that the Highways Agency have taken the time to read my comments and make it a trouble free return trip for us, I wonder if it will last! | |